Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For SeaGuide XOHG, XOMG, XOG-W, XOG-N. For > American Tackle TS-H, TS-M, and TRS. For PacBay M > and F. Kigan ZH, and Z zero. > Norm Thank you Norm!
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Michael & Norm, I agree and did order the recommended guides (although the recommendations I find find here and got directly from Jim differed from what the calculator told me.) I was asking because I was having a hard time finding all the guides in stock for the full guide train. I'd check one day and the belly guide would be out of stock, check a few days later and the belly would be li
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Hey guys, building my first spinning rods and have already ordered the appropriate Fuji guides to do a full KR-Concept layout. I was having a heck of a time finding the rights guides in stock (thank you COVID). It got me thinking though, the KR-Concept seems to have been launched around late 2012. Have other companies released similar small ring high frame guides that work with the concept as wel
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Hey folks, Looking to dive a little deeper into rod building, and was going to pick up a copy of Dale Clemens Adv. Custom Rod Building to help me a long the way. Looking around, it seems there are several printings, a 1978, a 1987/88 and a 2008/13. Wondering if there are any significant differences between the various printings. If anyone knows, I'd really appreciate it. Found a brief comment
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Thanks Norm!
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Good day to all! I'm hoping you guys will have some answers for me. I'm building a personal rod and want to put some alignment dots/marks on it. I'm wondering what methods you guys have for making the marks that can be applied straight to a blank and don't need to be overcoated with something. On a past build I used testors enamel paint, but the uncoated ones are almost gone now. I've read
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Hey guys a couple questions on rod repair. I have a fly rod I'm trying to repair, it is broken about 8 inches from the top just a little bit below the bottom of the wrap for the lower guide foot. I'm trying to follow the rod repair article in the library. 1) I stopped by a thrift store and found the only old rod they had to bought it to use in the repair. Once I cut open the top part, it appea
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Thanks for the help Herb. I'll send you an email in the next few days. Bill, now I'm curious after Herb's comment...
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I don't have any rods right now to get it done. I just have some 5wt. and lower rods for trout.
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Hey guys, I'm looking forward to building my first CTS rod soon. I'm looking at either the Affinity M or Affinity X for throwing streamers and poppers for smallmouth bass. Typically I like to try casting a rod, but since that's probably not going to happen, does anyone have a recommendation or know of productions rods I could cast to get a feel for which one would fit my casting better? Thanks fo
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I'm building an MHX fly blank right now and I'm pretty impressed with it, but it's a 5wt. 4pc. and my first MHX blank. I would however guess based on the blank I have that the ones you're looking at would be pretty nice as well.
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I know Mudhole and Angler's Workshop both sell MHX blanks that have a bunch of their most popular blanks in white. Herb (CTS Fly Rod Blanks on the left) sells CTS blanks and they will custom paint any of their blanks to any of their offered colors including alpine white. Those are the ones I know, I'm sure there are others.
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I've seen a lot of people talking about how great the microwave guides are on spinning rods. I was curious if you guys thought they might have an application on fly rods? It seems like it's really the first guide or two that really provide the line taming control, so maybe replace the the two stripping guides with Microwaves and then the rest of the guide train normal? This is mostly a philosophi
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Ron, The best way is probably Static Guide Placement. Tom's got an article in the library on how to do it. Another great option and a good starting point for the Static Guide placement method is the manufacturer's specs. If you don't want to do the static guide placement, I would probably stick with the manufacturer's specs since they know the blank best. If you don't have the manufacturer
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Tom, That first one about blank strength settled my last question about building on the spine (although I suppose I've been doing it backwards cause I would mark the stiffest axis and build on that not the true spine). Looks like the difference is fairly negligible.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Even the fast drying epoxies I leve them to dry > overnight > > better to have it COMPLETLY dry then have it move > in a cool shop and then IT DRYS -- Now what - ya > redo the seat handle - grips ???? > > That is a Real wast of time Bill, I totally agree. Like I mentioned I ju
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Phil, Thanks for that article! It was a really interesting read. Now I'm gonna have to go home and redo all my markings. Glad I asked around here first. :) Josh
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Tom, Can you point me to the articles in the library? The only one I see is the "home-brew spine finder". I also only seem to see a category labeled "Most Recent Added" when I click on the library link with about 38 articles in it. Are there more articles than that? Maybe I need to learn to navigate this site better.
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Josh. > > The spine is no longer thought to be much of a > factor in rod building, the method used mostly > these days is the straightest axis, so I would not > sweat it, it does not hurt to find the spine but > it is really not needed. > > Tight Wraps. Interesting! Is
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Thanks guys!
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One more question. The rod I'm building is a 4 piece and I found the spine/spline on the 3 tip sections easy enough, but the but section is stiff enough that I'm having trouble finding the spine. Is it really that critical to find the spine on the butt section of the rod? If it matters the blank I'm using is a 10ft 5wt 4 piece MHX fly blank. I believe it is labeled a fast action but I haven't don
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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to glue a handle & reel seat to the blank tonight and I've got some of the RodDancer ultimate gel 15 minute 2 part epoxy. I wondered if you guys had any tips or tricks for getting equal amounts to mix since you can't exactly use a syringe with this type of stuff. Just eyeball it? I mixed up a test batch the other day just eyeballing it, and it seemed to set but aft
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I found a CCS database on the sexyloops site, but I have no idea how it compares to the super on site since I never got to see that one. Looks like there are a couple BIIx's in there but not the exact model you're looking for. Link:
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I think I've also heard of using an abrasive cutting disk (on anything from a dremel tool to an angle grinder to the chop saw you mentioned)
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The general wisdom would say to use a light rod. Probably a 3 or 4 weight for sunfish. If you need to cast a popper a "country mile" (40+ ft.) into a stiff wind you might want a 5wt. for sunfish. I believe that people going after bass are generally in the range of a 6 or 7 weight. That said you could use any weight you want it mostly depends on the experience you want. A lighter weight
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So I've read about static load testing for guide placement , but I've also read that assembled blanks shouldn't really be flexed until you wrapped the ferrules (I think I've even seen suggestions to not even assemble the rod before wrapping the ferrules) to prevent splitting. So what's the common practice? Do a quick and dirty wrap for static load testing/test casting that you remove to do the fi
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Hey guys I found some interesting work done by an engineer and posted on his blog related to this. He measures the weight and sizes of a bunch of guides and also the finished weights etc. Unfortunately he doesn't go too deep into how different guide affect the "feel" of the blank. It would be really nice to see a similar treatise that builds on this work but shows the differences in CCS
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Thanks Tom!
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Thanks for the help guys. That helps allay my fears about CP. Sometimes my perfectionist engineering mind takes over and tries to bomb proof my projects :) So about permagloss though will nylon thread tend to darken less under it than under epoxy (without cp?) or do no cp finishes end up looking similar colorwise regardless of whether you use epoxy or permagloss?
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Glad to see this community growing! I'm pretty new too. Built one 9ft. 4wt. on an American Tackle Matrix blank. Started a TFO TiCrX 9ft 5wt build then decided the rod wasn't really what I wanted so it's still half wrapped 2 years later. Now I'm getting ready for a 10ft. 5wt. MHX build for my father.
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