I've experienced this myself. I came to the conclusion, at least for my guides, the paint on the adjacent edges was indeed thicker and seemed to want to push the thread a bit. I ground the first few millimeters of the side of the foot, and round the top of the foot over to the edges/sides. This did the trick, wrapped nice without gaps or overlap. One thing I always do with painted or blackened gu
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Mine run hot to the touch. I don't worry about it because I never had one stop while drying. I did have one that also was loud, the built in gear reduction sounded as if it was missing a tooth, and it got really hot - I couldn't leave my hand on it for ore than 5 or 20 seconds.... replaced it right away. Other than that they all seem warm, or slightly hot, to the touch. Cheap Chinese motors? I fo
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American Tackle - many of the distributors sell their guides and tops, I go direct to them.
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I would suggest sticking to the condiment cups. I bought a bag of 100 (with lids which I throw away) from Mud Hole for around $7 last year, just now needing to order more. The reason I say the cups verse cans.... I used to work in a mill that made coated aluminum and coated metal for food industries. When coating a coil (think big sheet of coiled metal, like aluminum foil only thicker and weig
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Thanks gents.... this helps greatly. I saw also another forum where they were talking about no longer than 10 inches from the butt to the stem or trigger, so I think I'll make a custom aft-end cork for the VSS rather than using the factory cork for the seat. I don't see needing as much cork aft of the reel as the factory cork anyway, and it will give me 1/2 inch or more skin space. It's intere
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Guys... thank you for the follow-up. It's great to see diverse methods working for each person. I haven't spoken to Flex Coat, which is the brand I use. I started with Pac Bay and didn't like it, seemed too thick and I didn't like how it flowed when applied. I use Flex Coat exclusively, but am considering looking at a one part finish to see if there is a place for it in my builds. I do use a syri
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Gregg, does 3 ML of hardener equal 3ML of resin in > weight? Not exactly... the viscosities are not the same. They're very close depending on the brand. My point was more about being able to accurately judge 3mL in a syringe because of the miniscus. Ever notice how water in a clear glass rides up on the gla
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I'm relatively new to rod making. Being an engineer that has worked with many epoxies over the years in my career I knew when I started rod building I would want a digital scale accurate in sub-gram increments. I agree with the posts... lines are lines on syringes, general guides. Epoxy can be a fussy material, so I put my cup on the scale, tare the weight of the cup, and add equal weights of har
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I'm wondering what people are doing to properly locate where a spinning reel seat should be during a build? I have some Fuji VSS split grips which have a pretty long cork on the aft side (relative to most split grips), and I want to use a skin between the fighting butt and the reel seat cork... but my balance point pretty much leaves a very short (2-3 inch or 5-7cm) section of blank exposed. I s
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Drew Pollock Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My dealings with Decal Connection have been great. > They really do a first class job. > > Their decals are peel and stick, and it is really important to put down an epoxy layer first, apply the decal to the epoxy, and then epoxy over the decal. Drew.... are you letting a thin coat of epoxy cure on
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Thanks Roger! I was thinking about cutting the end off the grip but they are the Fuji grips with dark cork on the end of lighter cork, and definitely not the same density etc. Then when you mentioned using a razor blade on the lathe- it made sense, I'll give this a go as I've used razor blades on foam and balsa on the lathe with good success in getting straight parting lines. The tape and marks
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Good ideas! I'll try this on the second build (plugging with some matching cork using dust with the glue). Thanks for the tips.
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Thank you gentlemen. The videos were helpful. Your comments are appreciated - as well as the warning about drilling! I actually do know how you know that, because I had to teach myself the folly of drilling to find the bit grabbing and ripping the cork! Tight lines to you both! Gregg
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I've built a number of rods, so far the grip has always been solid from the reel seat to the butt cap. Now I have two new projects, both with Fuji split grips and seats, and . My question is; the butt grip has the end cap already permanently glued on. In my previous builds I was able to ream to size through the aft grip. Since the butt grip has the cap already permanently affixed; how are you guy
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