ANY THREAD FINISH FOR THREAD IS MADE TO BE MIXED -- BY VOLUME - NOT WEIGHT
At least the ones sold on Rodbuilding sites

Bill - willierods.com

Years ago, around 1980 or '81, a company at a large outdoor sportsman's Expo where I was demonstrating rod building, a Manufacturer of a new finish gave me a number of kits of his new finish. It was a two part, but you had to mix 2 parts of resin to 1 part of hardener. I tried it on several test wraps and it looked good and was nice and hard. I didn't have a chance to test it outdoors and it looked so good that when the record producer for Eric Clapton asked me to make him another rod I used it. Bad mistake!!! First time he fished with it in the rain and salt water, it turned soft and looked like it had milk mixed in the finish. I had to strip every wrap, including an elaborate Spider butt wrap, and do it over with a tried and true finish. That company only lasted about 6 months.

Guys... thank you for the follow-up. It's great to see diverse methods working for each person. I haven't spoken to Flex Coat, which is the brand I use. I started with Pac Bay and didn't like it, seemed too thick and I didn't like how it flowed when applied. I use Flex Coat exclusively, but am considering looking at a one part finish to see if there is a place for it in my builds. I do use a syringe to meter the epoxy into the mixing cup, but I rely on the scale, not the syringe, to tell me 'when'. As noted, I've not had any non-curing, under cured finishes. It's interesting to consider that the Flexcoat 2 oz kit (what I buy) is labeled 1oz on each bottle, 2oz kit noted on the labeling, and are the same size bottles with the same amount fill. This tells me the weight/volume is very close to even.

You're completely right Roger, some manufacturers recommend by weight while others by volume. For equal amounts volume of Flex Coat the difference per mL was only 0.1 grams weight difference, so I opted to use the scale. It's calibrated better than my eye! Maybe I'm being a little obstinate, but it's working for me, so "if it ain't broke, I won't fix it" :) I did check the Flex Coat instructional video which does talk about equal parts (volume), I don't know why but they also recommend never mixing less than 2cc's in a syringe? Did I hear that right?

Educate me

Who that makes a ( thread finish ) two part does not us e a 50 - 50 buy volume ???

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, like I said, they went out of business after only 6 months. That was around 1980 or '81, and I don't remember the name. It was fine indoors without any exposure to moisture, but that exposure killed that company.

Bill, like I said, they went out of business after only 6 months. That was around 1980 or '81, and I don't remember the name. It was fine indoors without any exposure to moisture, but that exposure killed that company .Gregg, you can't go wrong with Perma Gloss or Lumiseal for a 1 part finish.

Or maybe an Auto Two Part Clear Finish

Bill - willierods.com

Gregg,
Sorry, the part A flexcoat and part B flex coat do NOT weigh the same for the same volume.

You say that you have a very sensitive scale.

By the way, I believe that the oz's that you see on a bottle is fluid ozs, not mass ozs.

Here is a definition of the difference:

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Fluid ounces measure volume--there are 16 fl oz. in a pint.

Ounces measure weight--there are 16 ounces in a pound.

How much a fluid ounce will weigh will depend on the density of the fluid. A fluid ounce of water is pretty close to an ounce: 1.043 ounces per fluid ounce. This number will be different for any liquid other than water.

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The point of the definition is simply this:
A fluid oz of water weighs nearly the same as a mass oz of weight.

But, if the density of the liquids is different than water, then the mass weight of the fluid oz will be more or less than 1 oz.

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When you see the flex coat kit that says it contains 2 oz, the label refers to the fact that the kit contains two "fluid ozs" of liquid.

Then, when you see a 1 oz mark on each container, that means that each container contains 1 fluid oz of liquid; not 1 mass oz of fluid.

You can easily see the difference by using your very sensitive scale and mass weigh the identical containers - one filled with part A and one with part B.

It is much easier to see the difference, if you can measure 8 oz or even quart containers. Then the weight difference will pop out at you.

I don't recall the exact number but when I called flex coat for confirmation of the number, the weight difference was something like 100 to 75. Or, one weighed about 75% of the other and thus you would need a weight multiplication factor for use of the scale.

Consider yourself lucky as well as the wide latitude of the flex coat products for a mismatch of part a and part b if you have lucked out with getting your finish to harden.

But, if you mix correctly, the finish will be even better.

As I said earlier, call an epoxy manufacturer for their exact volume to weight multiplier factor - if it is anything other than a 1:1 weight ratio. There are some epoxies (not sold for rod finish) that do work just fine for rod finish that are a 1:1 measure by wieght, but you need to verify to be sure.

Be safe

[www.flexcoat.com]

How do I convert liquid ounces(oz) into ounces (mass)?

If you know what the fluid is, you can use density (mass/volume)

Convert your ounces (liquid) into cubic feet.
By definition: 1 cubic foot = 1000 liquid ounces
so the conversion factor is .001

Most densities are given in lb(mass)/cu. ft
So when you multiply the volume by density you will get lbs
and then you can divide by 16 to get ounces (mass)

EDIT: You have to know what the fluid is to be able to do this

When I thin my finish it drys to the touch in about 5 hours and I could recoat then

There are also large syringes for a larger amount of mix

Bill - willierods.com