Some supply places will send the correct size checks if you let them know where you want them on the rod.
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Thanks, Norman. I know it's not much, but I'm still curious how much difference the extra thread and epoxy finish add with the micros. Guess I'll eventually have to do an experiment.
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Speaking of thread and epoxy weight, I have wondered about micro guides vs conventional guides, but have never taken time to weigh things out. The question in my head has always been: Since more micro guides are required for a blank vs conventional guides for the same blank, that means there is more thread and epoxy on the rod if using micro guides, hence, additional weight. So, after all is s
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What did you use for this?
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You can print your own on clear mailing labels if you cant find useable decals. After printing, use a spray fixative (I use clear acrylic) on the printed decal, apply silver leaf paint or white paint to the blank, apply your homemade decal to the blank, and apply thread finish over it.
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Check Mudhole's website or latest catalog. I believe I remember seeing in one of the two where they have a new color matching system for Prowrap that denotes color matches for some Gudebrod colors (and a few other brands), if your're trying to match new thread to the old Gudebrod
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I'm sure other folks have done this too, but I've used "regular sized" Winn grips with size 16 SK2 seats several times. For fairly a streamlined fit, you can easily cut the tenon off and then shape the short black foam section between where the tenon was and where the grip material begins to taper it down to the O.D. of the SK2. I've built several for customers like this and no one ha
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Kind of hitting on what Roger said...I have a old piece of blank that I have done short wraps on with each color thread that I have, including NCP and Nylon, and applied thread finish over them. I do two wraps of the same color next to each other and then CP one of them and leave the other without CP (even on NCP thread as the NCP will change a little bit without CP). This way I have a quick ref
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Have you checked with the company you have your homeowners insurance with? My wife is a photographer and primarily uses our property and a basement studio in our house, unless a client has another preferred location. We spoke to our insurance agent about coverage for this and they came up with very affordable liability coverage for her business purposes. I can't remember what the coverage vs r
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Yep, been there and done that. Had a few spools of not only Prowrap metallic, but also their nylon and ncp that had splice knots. As for the fading of metallics (mostly dark colors and red in my experience) I wish some sort of science, magic, or stars would align to fix that problem in the industry. I have a few factory built rods laying around that are several years old and the blue metallic
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If you can't find any from sponsors, Lynn Williams (WIlliams Custom Rods if you search the interenet) is on the forum here occasionally and sells them. He used to make them for Mudhole. I saw him last week and he had some shorter ones, but I can't remember what length.
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I take super glue (liquid, not the gel form) and run a very thin streak on the edges of the decal and let dry for a few minutes. The glue will have somewhat of white look when it first dries, but will turn clear and completely unnoticeable when finish is applied. I then apply high build over the decal (while the rod rotates) and use a torch to remove bubbles or extra finish. Comes out perfect
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I too am a fan of the ACS ( I also have large hands) and all of my customers that have tried the ACS prefer the feel of it over other styles I have presented to them. In the end, it comes down to personal preference.
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The Batson Rainshadow GCB710MH is an E-glass blank and although I haven't had a KVD in hand for a while, I think it's pretty similar.
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What's the majority's opinion for situations where the blank is much narrower than the guide? Put it on as is or grind/file the sides of the guide foot down so that it better matches the width of the blank?
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Ditto on MHX blanks. I'm particularly fond of the high modulus line up.
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Try taking some super glue ( I use Krazy Glue) and run a very thin streak of it around the edges of the decal. It'll only take a few minutes to dry and will look funky, but will completely disappear after finish is applied.
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As Mike hit on, be sure to give yourself plenty of length on the grip section so you can control the flip/pitch and also have good leverage to set the hook and pull a fish out of or from around heavy cover. I too like a spiral wrap, but since it's your own custom build, do what you'd like.
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I've always used a plain ol' propane torch with great results. Like any heat source though, don't get it too close and don't hold it too long. I use a repetitive up and down motion over the top portion of the rod as it is turning which quickly puts the heat near the finish and quickly pulls it away. I have a heat gun too, but prefer the precision of the torch, especially if using it near the en
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Primarily ProWrap, some PacBay, and very little Fuji
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Very cool! Good to see some trail blazers like that are still around and going strong.
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I know many on here are against what I'm about to throw out here, but...when it comes to covering decals or butt wraps, I put a lot if epoxy on and then torch it (without smoking the finish) which gets rid of excess epoxy yet leaves a nice finished layer when cured. It turns out smooth every time and is a very quick process.
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Don't forget the MHX blanks, especially the High Modulus lineup.
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Need a set (grip and butt only) of yellow Winn split grips. Had a set ordered (found them on clearance for under $8.00 from a sponsor), but they ended up being out of stock and discontinued. I found them somewhere else for about $22, but was hoping to save a few bucks if anyone can help me out.
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What I did when I first started was take a 2" PVC cap and drilled a hole in the center. I ran about a 3/8" bolt through the hole and put a couple nuts on it which allowed me to lock the cap onto the bolt and then slide the bolt into the drill chuck. I then took four short screws and placed them at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. Lastly, I took two O rings that were big enough to
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I recently did a tiger wrap with a red and silver base layer and used red as the primary color on the top layer. Simple colors, but it turned out excellent!
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On the issue brought up of saving weight with a standard guide in place of a tip top...Have you considered that by the time you wrap the guide (I realize thread weight is minimal) and apply finish that it may weigh as much as a tube style tip top? I don't know this to be true, but it seems like a possibility.
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I use this method all the time, except I just run my finger back and forth across the decal, working my way from the center of the decal to the bottom of the blank instead of using a seam roller. Always goes on smooth with no bubbles and its quick. I use krazy glue on the seam instead of color preserver as it dries quicker and is unnoticeable after applying finish. If you want your lettering or
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Forgot to mention in my above post that I've also used the Pac Bay metallic purple with the same problem. Thanks for the other brand suggestions.
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I've used the purple Prowrap metallic on a couple rods and it fades in absolutely no time. I thought the first spool just may have been from a bad batch. A couple years later, I bought another spool and had the same problem. The blues don't last much longer than the purple and red goes to pretty quick too. Other Prowrap metallic colors that I've used seem to do okay. I have some factory ro
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