I think you'll notice tighter wraps if you'll knock the edges down too.
Forum: rodboard

I wouldn't argue with someone who has used them with good results, particularly on the same application as what you plan to use them for. However, I've seen this question come up before and from what I recall several builders had issue with them. I personally have seen minimas groove (most often tip-tops, but also other guides in the train) with mono and fluoro and not always over many years of
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Thanks for the suggestions.
Forum: rodboard

Had this happen a few times on various decals only to have to strip things off and try again. Now I've learned to swipe a very thin streak of Krazy Glue along the edge of the decal with the Krazy Glue applicator tip (I use the standard little liquid tube). It dries in just a few minutes and you're ready to apply finish. Gives two great results...your label/decal stays down and you can't see th
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I have a customer wanting a 7' MH camouflage blank. Looking for something like the X-Camo or Fishoflauge pattern, but I haven't been able to find one in medium heavy, only light to medium powers. I know 7' medium heavy blanks are available in digital camo, but the customer doesn't want the digital pattern. Also looking to avoid the expense of hydrographic dipping. Anyone know if such a blank
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Sometimes the thread will still jump around on micros when it meets the foot if not filed or ground. If you like to try to wrap fast, take a minute to smooth them down a bit.
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In a nutshell...you can get something better than what you can buy off of a rack in a store that is built to fit your particular needs and specifications, rather than a rod that was mass produced in hopes of taking care of those preferences. A rod that will fit you and, if desired, a rod that looks like no other in the world!
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What I do is turn my on my rod dryer and put a very heavy coat of finish over the wraps. Then I torch it to remove bubbles and it also allows the excess finish to drip off. I also use a brush or the lip of my mixing cup to remove any little drips on the bottom that are sagging, but won't fall off on their own. This will give me a smooth finish every time over cross wraps and guide wraps too.
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Not a fan of the new site design. Lost my shopping cart that had a bunch of items so I had to take quite a bit of time to find them again. I think it was much easier to navigate the old site and I don't like the layout of blank pages. I use a lot of MHX Blanks and I could scroll through the old style list MUCH quicker to find what I needed.
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I use a drill bit on them that is nearest the size of the blank. However, I run the drill in reverse and it works just fine (for me anyway) without having to worry about chewing up the inside of the grip/but or getting the hole off to one side or accidentally drilling through the bottom of the butt grip.
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Does anyone have further insight on metallic thread fading? From all I've found in my research, it just seems to be a problem in general. I've used ProWrap metallic exclusively so far and the purple and blues have faded terribly in a very short amount of time (4-5 months). Haven't seen any of my customer's rods that I did in other colors, so I can't say how reds, golds, greens, and the like ar
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > None of the commercial rod makers apply a color > coat and then a clear overcoat. It's all done in > one step - color/gloss. Most use urethanes or > polyurethanes. > > .............. Tom, So, for instance, when I look at a cross section of say, a white Duckett rod, I can clearly see a laye
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After looking around the forum, I just cant seem to find a specific answer (or at least one that seems to suit me). So, let me ask a different version of an old question. If I paint a blank and want to give said paint extra protection WITHOUT the final finish cracking down the road after the blank has been subjected to normal use, what should I use? Is it automotive clear coat, polyurethane,
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I appreciate the suggestions. I just want to make sure the blank allows the crankbait to have the right action while not jarring the teeth out of the user!
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I have a customer who wants a crankbait rod that will handle the new huge crankbaits ( strike king 10xd/ lucky craft skt ) and he particularly wants the lure weight rated for up to 4 ounces as these lures weigh from roughly 2 ozs to 4 ounces. MHX tells me they have a specific blank for that type of crankbait that will probably be available within a month and a half, but I suppose it's looking
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Do you use any type of protective coating over the paint itself?
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Can anyone recommend a place to find rattlesnake skin that won't cost a fortune? I'm aware that mudhole has it, but I was hoping to find some cheaper.
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I haven't used X Flock yet, but it seems simple enough. I'm considering using it on a split grip that has an EVA butt. My question is how well does it close up around the bottom of the butt? I've found lots of pictures where people have used it on the lower part of a grip, but none that show the actual end of the grip. I wouldn't think it could up too tight on the rounded bottom of the butt
Forum: rodboard

I'm new at decals and use an HP inkjet on clear shipping labels. I spray them with a clear enamel ( such as Krylon) after printing to prevent the Epoxy from ruining the ink after it's placed on the rod. Would color preserver affect the longevity of the decal since there is a layer of spray enamel between the CP and actual ink, or would it be pointless? Also, is there any type of label materi
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