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<p>I made this rod recently for a local pond owner.  The materials are stabilized big leaf maple burl dyed green, green-dyed burl cork, and cork. </p>
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8' fly rod built on a Lamiglas 5-wt. fiberglass blank.
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I just completed this rod today - 8' 5-wt. made on a Lamiglas fiberglass blank.
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Handle for 7' UL live-bait rod made on a 3-wt. Lamiglas fiberglass blank.
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I just posted a question on the discussion forum. The rubber plug that goes in the end of the male ferrule also fell out when I took the blank out of the shipping tube. I just need to know whether it's okay to build on the blank or if I should send it back to the manufacturer.
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I just posted a question on the discussion forum. The rubber plug that goes in the end of the male ferrule also fell out when I took the blank out of the shipping tube. I just need to know whether it's okay to build on the blank or if I should send it back to the manufacturer.
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Ebony, holly, copano cork, birch bark, checkered cork; 7' 3-weight Lamiglas fiberglass blank
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MHX white blank, box elder burl from reelseatblanks.com, Forecast reel seat
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Blank is a 2-wt. American Tackle. The handle is dyed big leaf maple burl from reelseatblanks.com. The feather inlays were my first (forgot to take a photo of them, but not sure they warranted one anyway).
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This is the handle for a 5' UL rod made on an MHX S6010 blank.
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I would agree with what Phil posted. Fast-action blanks are all the rage these days, and they're great if you only use lures. But it sounds like you do a good amount of live-bait fishing, in which case slower blanks have the major advantage of not snapping your bait off the hook when you make a cast. There's an entire live-bait system, called Nightcrawler Secrets, that was developed by the sta
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What works for me is to use urethane foam to glue the rings onto. They stay together much better this way for me.
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If it falls on a weekend, depending on the date, I'm in. This sounds great - I have been wishing something like this would happen in our area.
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My curiosity is officially piqued...
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There's no comparison between making grips, even just a cork grip, on a lathe versus on a rod wrapper. I bought a lathe two years ago; if I had to go back to making grips on my power wrapper I would give up making rods.
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That looks like it could work, Bill! Have you used acrylic for trim before and if so, anything I should keep in mind as far as working with it?
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Barry, the blank is indeed being painted - it's a CTS and they have a bright yellow color among their choices. Now for the next question: I looked at the Dupont site, and they don't have a bright yellow color for Corian. What's a material I could use that would give me a bright yellow and would be good for trim rings?
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I have never used corian or the like for trim on a handle but presently am building a rod for which I'd like to employ it. The customer is an LSU fan and requested a yellow blank, so I want to use bright yellow trim on the handle to match the blank. Is corian the best, and how would I purchase it for this? I went to my local Lowe's a while back but they didn't sell samples. Is there anything
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Electrical tape. For years the only handle type I made for spinning rods was a true Tennessee handle, which does not use slip rings but only electrical tape. The slip rings are entirely superfluous as they will never hold the reel securely, reliably - I have proven this to myself the hard way after making multiple slip-ring rods in the past couple years. They don't call them "slip" f
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I second that metallic thread is harder to work with - significantly so. I did one rod with metallic trim bands and decided that would be my first and last experience with such.
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Hi Jerry, my e-mail address is jesse.foreman@gmail.com. I tried to e-mail you on here but yours is hidden too (I didn't realize mine was hidden).
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I can turn you one if you haven't found someone already - wood handles are my main thing. Send me a PM if you like.
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Have any cork dealers begun conforming to this system yet? I for one would make a point of patronizing such a dealer. More than once I have had the experience of ordering cork listed as the highest grade for that dealer - sometimes Flor, sometimes several As - only to have it arrive and be highly disappointed in the quality.
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I'm finishing up two builds, and am having a problem that I haven't encountered before. I use Cason's clear color preserver; I've used it on several rods and have never had a problem up until now. However, a couple days ago I noticed that one of the wraps on one rod had a spot where the thread had discolored slightly, going darker than the rest of the wrap; elsewhere on that same rod, there wer
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Ray, that's why I recommended the rings from the place I linked to - they have much more substance to them, meaning there's plenty of bark left to work with after removing the white skin. The rings I was able to punch out of the sheets from Mudhole only averaged about 1/16", but the rings from the custom fly grips place are at least twice that thick if not more than that. And, they're alre
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I buy a lot of components from Mudhole, but their birch bark leaves a lot to be desired. Here's a far better source - already cut into rings with a hole in the center so all you have to do to use them is strip the white bark off, and do any reaming necessary. And these rings are much thicker on average than Mudhole's: One thing that helped me a lot is a tip I picked up from another build
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Thanks guys, much appreciated!
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So I'm building my first fly rod, and have not been able to find a lot regarding the proper guide placement and how to determine such. I'm building on an 8' 5-weight Lamiglas fiberglass blank; the guides are single-foot REC. Is there a formula akin to the New Concept system but for fly rods?
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