Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

I have built many float rods (centerpin) as that is my fishing method of choice. I have built on CTS, loomis, and batson blanks for the most part. Typically because these rods are from 11 to 15 feet long and flex more than typical rods, the general rule is to have the number of guides on the rod equal the length of the rod and add one for the tip. Obviously the term custom build refers to the
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for all of the tips. This is not a new issue. It has been since I built it. I am pretty confident that it is in the quality of the pedal.
Forum: rodboard

I found an inexpensive sewing machine and foot pedal and made my own power wrapper. The setup works fine but, I find that I can not get consistent incremental speed control. Sometimes it works fine and light pressure on the pedal gives me a nice slow speed, other times light pressure gives me nothing till the pedal is depressed more and it jumps right to a faster speed. I can only assume that it
Forum: rodboard

90% of my builds are centerpin or float rods. I am also an avid steelheader. If money is no object, hands down the CTS Affinity blanks are my personal favorite. The weight to strength ratio is amazing. They are available in 12, 13, and 13' 6'' lengths in two different weights 4-8lb and 6 -10lb. They are two piece, except for the 13' 6'' which is 3. I primarilly fish lake Ontario tribs. The
Forum: rodboard

thanks for the replies will be in touch Ron.
Forum: rodboard

I am a rodbuilder who builds for fun, not profit. I am very interested in some of the components from Merrick Tackle but I have no tax ID number so I can't even get a catalogue. The online catalogue doesn't show enough detail. My question, can i not buy their product if I am not a business? They seem to have nice stuff.
Forum: rodboard

Jack, I would do underwrap, then color preserver, then wrap the guides and color preserver on top and epoxy the final wrap. i wouldn't epoxy the underwrap first. Others may have a different opinion, but that is mine.
Forum: rodboard

90% of my builds are float rods for steelhead fishing. If money is not an object, go with the Fugi Titanium TYSG's. They are strong and light. Else go with the Fuji CYAG's. For smooth transition I use the following sequence 20j 16j 12j 10j 8j 8j 8j 8lj 8lj 7j to the tip (the number of 7j's depends on the length of the rod). The transition from the 8 higher frame guides to the 8 lower frame
Forum: rodboard

I have recently purchased a quality cuticle nipper and have used it on my last two builds and it seems to cut very cleanly and close to the wrap leaving neither fuzz nor a bump. I read this on this very site and it works perfectly. I have tried the method that Jack suggested and it also works perfectly. I like to experiment. This site is an amazing resource of knowlege.
Forum: rodboard

You will get alot of different opinions on this. I do not use a sureform or a block. I wipe off as much epoxy as I can from the cork before it hardens. I just use sand paper. I spin the cork at a fairly high speed. I generally use burl, burnt burl and rubberized cork for my handles.
Forum: rodboard

Gary, Most of my builds are float rods or centerpin rods. I would start with the Batson rainshadow blanks. They are on the heavy side but are very durable. If money is no object, the CTS is the cream of the crop in my opinion. Feel free to e mail me with questions. Frank
Forum: rodboard

Threadmaster Light. I am not a pro, but I get professional consistent results. Bubbles are easy to remove and a nice glass like finish. I usually use one coat on guide wraps, two on decorative wraps
Forum: rodboard

I have used bronze with gold trim band. pretty classy as well
Forum: rodboard