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Rodmaker article
Posted by:
David Sytsma
(---.res.spectrum.com)
Date: April 30, 2024 08:50PM
In the most recent Rodmaker, there was an article about using Perma Gloss to prevent cracking on the ends of the guide feet. My question is this: Is the Perma Gloss being applied to the entire wrap, or just the areas at the end of the guide feet? Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
Michael Danek
(---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: May 01, 2024 07:31AM
I have not done this, but it seems logical to me that since you cannot use CP to make this process effective, then you have to coat the whole wrap with PG. Otherwise you would end up with a two toned wrap.
I personally have never noticed cracking at the end of the guide foot and use CP on almost all my rods. Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: May 01, 2024 08:43AM
It's applied to the entire wrap prior to the epoxy being applied.
.......... Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
David Sytsma
(---.res.spectrum.com)
Date: May 01, 2024 06:43PM
Michael,
If you don't mind me asking, is there a brand of CP that you prefer? Dave Sytsma Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
Michael Danek
(---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: May 02, 2024 05:49AM
I have used Flex Coat for many years. It's a white water based CP, so it should be mixed/shaken before use to distribute the solids, as I understand it and always do. I put it on liberally, making sure the tunnels take all they want with capillary action, go clean the brush, then come back in a couple minutes and dab excess off with a paper towel. The dabbing makes sure there are no surviving bubbles, too. One coat applied this way seems to do it. Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: May 02, 2024 08:13AM
Ralph used to say to stir it rather than shake, in order to keep bubbles to a minimum. It can be hard to stir through the neck of the small bottles, of course.
............ Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
david taylor
(76.25.22.---)
Date: May 04, 2024 02:19AM
Yes, stir, shake or mix it in one manner or another. As Mick indicated, apply liberally and after a few minutes take off any excess. I have even used a second coat to ensure full effect.
I have come to not like CP or its application, so have been using Fuji thread with the CP embedded. I think it wraps a tad more difficultly than NonCP thread, but really looks good with a a Gen4 thread epoxy. Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
David Sytsma
(---.res.spectrum.com)
Date: May 04, 2024 10:32PM
Thanks, Michael. I've got three CP's in my shop: Flex Coat, U-40, and Al's ColorRite. Used Flex Coat for many years on nearly everything. I've found Al's to do the best job of actually keeping the original color as the Flex Coat and U-40 will darken the thread slightly. I had a problem a few months ago with guides pulling out of the thread on a couple of steelhead rods I built for a customer. I was using Al's on those. I told him to bring the rods over and I completely re-wrapped both rods. I was shocked that there was absolutely no thread penetration to the blank; it was completely clean. The guides that pulled (first time in my career that's happened) were Fuji KT's and even one KB. Originally I had used Fuji UltraPoly with the Al's CP. When I re-wrapped I used Fuji NOCP without any CP and didn't have any more issues (black thread). I fully understand the concept of filling the tunnels, but there aren't really any tunnels on those little guides. As it stands right now I've moved over to more of the NOCP thread like David because I'm sort of gun shy about having a repeat performance like I had with the steelhead rods, but I'm going to give CP another shot on something less critical using your methods. Thanks for the advice. Re: Rodmaker article
Posted by:
Mike Ballard
(---)
Date: May 05, 2024 08:35AM
The Flex Coat and U40 CPs are the same product according to what Ralph told us at a seminar many years ago. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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