Many, many years ago when Cabela's got out of selling roadbuilding components I bought 30 or so Tip glue tubes. You know the red lipstick looking deals. Pop cover off heat and put cover back on.
Now, everything for sale looks like a glue stick for craft guns. Are they the same compound or make up? Can I use a glue stick or do I need to buy specific tip glue??
Thanks - Between giving away and using I thought I'd never run out!
Marcus

Marcus McCleery

I'm no expert, but I think I read they are not the same.

Fuji AG1C World Hot Melt Glue Red

Enter that line into the search bar on that place that has the smile face on their delivery trucks. $1.84 per tube.

I have noticed the difference im quality between different brands. Using the hot melt glue stick from Fuji seems to be the better quality than the cheaper ones I have. It takes more heat to melt this one, and it cures (cools) harder and stronger. This is what I would use.

I think craft hot glue sticks could also work, but it would be better to use the higher quality brands capable of higher melting point and stronger adhesion.

If the tubes of hot melt you bought came in red tubes, those are most likely Fuji brand.

..........

I mostly use the flex coat hot melt tip-top cement. CRB also has a hot melt tip-top cement and so does Fuji. The Fuji tip-top cement comes in a red lipstick type of tube, it may be the stuff you got from Cabelas. These are all made for installing tip-tops and work fine. Have to be careful with the stuff you get in hobby stores, some melt at lower temperatures and are not suitable. Use the hot melt cements that are known to work for installing tip tops.
Norm

Marcus,
Craft store glue sticks melt at much lower temps than hot melt sticks designed for tip tops.

Stick with the stuff designed for the purpose at hand.
Herb
CTS

Thanks So much everyone! Especially David Baylor!! Just ordered 4 (max) from that cut-n-paste!! I'm anal in that I like things with a container!! This glue reminds me of my sister's candy choices. She would often get a lip stick type sour candy that came in a tube like this! I was born in the mid 60's Tell me we didn't have the best dime store candy!!
Back to topic - makes sense about the melting point! Don't want the sun to de-tip any rods!!
Thanks again!

Marcus McCleery

The ones in the red tubes seem softer (when cooled down) than the typical stick. They both seem to work fine. I carry the red one in the boat for emergencies.

Each manufacturer has their formulation, I would stick to the brands that are endorsed by the rod manufacturer and crafters.

I use epoxy and never worry about the integrity of the bond.

The stuff that archers use for assembling arrows is a safe bet. Any archery and some hunting stores will have it on hand.

[shop.bohning.com] [flexcoat.com] Roger's way is great.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2024 07:34PM by Lynn Behler.

Thanks So much everyone! Especially David Baylor!! Just ordered 4 (max) from that cut-n-paste!! I'm anal in that I like things with a container!! This glue reminds me of my sister's candy choices. She would often get a lip stick type sour candy that came in a tube like this! I was born in the mid 60's Tell me we didn't have the best dime store candy!!
Back to topic - makes sense about the melting point! Don't want the sun to de-tip any rods!!
Thanks again!

Marcus McCleery



Think I did it wrong the first time? - This will get to you David! - Thanks!

Marcus McCleery

Marcus, you're more than welcome. Glad I could help!

I use 10 minute epoxy or superglue gel in a pinch. No matter what you use it all comes off with heat. Even Clemens recommended epoxy back in the day. During the build, I usually take it on and off with glue sticks.

I have had some epoxied-on tip-tops that did not readily come off with heat. It was a real crap shoot as to whether I would get them off without sacrificing the last 1/2 inch of the blank. I'm sticking with hot melt that is designed for rod-building. Have had no trouble with them coming off in the tropics. One can get a little more assurance by just extending the wrap epoxy up onto the tube of the tip-top when finishing the tip-top wrap.

phil sweeney Wrote:
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> Even Clemens recommended epoxy back in the day.
> During the build, I usually take it on and off
> with glue sticks.

Clemens mentioned the "standby for installing tip-top was a daub of thermoplastic ferrule cement" (aka hot-melt glue).
He goes on to mention that heating a ceramic guide would melt or weaken the plastic shock ring...and he would rather use 5 minute epoxy.

To be honest...I dont think I ever melted a shock ring on a tip top.

What is a tiptop shock ring?

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> What is a tiptop shock ring?
If you have Clemens’ Adanced custom rod building, He discusses guide construction on page 201. Maybe someone else will comment but it looks to me like most of the guides nowadays do not have shock rings.
I was going to post a picture of our an old guide that has a shock ring, but I don’t know how to do it.

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> What is a tiptop shock ring?

Have you ever seen the old fuji guides that glowed in the dark?
That material was plastic and was also called a shock ring.





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2024 11:46AM by Chris Catignani.