Merrick,

My first build had CRB LZR guides, 8 for the stripper and 5's down the rod.

I've since built a few more with Fuji Ti Torzites and used a size 6 K series double foot for the stripper, 4.5 KBs for the spiral and 4.5 KTs for the rest of the blank.

Robert,

Thanks for the reply! Do you have the guide spacing for those guides? Sorry I’ve never done a casting build before, I’m used to fly rod building so this is a little foreign to me. I did also order the XO skeleton casting seat, curious what your thoughts are on that? I think I saw your first build utilized that?

Every freshwater baitcasting rod I’ve built for about three years has started with an RV6. I especially like them on BFS rods. I’ve got enough casts with various guides and have packed enough rods around to feel like these just work better and are very durable. My next build will be a Cagey Hook spiral wrap, though. While I’m happy using my tried and true formula, it really appears that Kent worked out something fairly revolutionary with this system. I’m not sure if the RV6’s high frame will be right for that until I get further into it. I’ll start that rod with the LRV if a lower guide is a better fit for the method.

Kendall,

I use a Titanium Torzite model KW size 6 double foot to start my all my casting builds now. I use that and I have done so with a Cagey Hook spiral on many rods. Works great, but I'm not sure how revolutionary it is over other spiral techniques. I like how it lengthens the spiral down the rod, but I cant tell the difference between them when I fish them, aside from looks. I also don't have years of spiral wraps under my belt.

Merrick,

I haven't built with the xo casting grip yet, But I will be soon. I used and American Tackle G2 full carbon handle as I prefer the feel of a full handle vs split grip. I'll send you some guide spacing, but depending on your spiral method and guide size it may shift a bit.

My advice would be to not over complicate it. If you take a normal casting rod layout/spacing and apply that with a spiral technique of your choice, you'll be 90% of the way there. Some small tweaks while static load testing will get your line path right.

Wrap one up and test cast it, that's what I do. If you have time you can wrap a few different ways on the rod and test cast and load before you epoxy and really find what you like, all you've sacrificed is thread and time...but not much of either.

It will fish great, regardless of what you call the method of layout.

On my current p700 build I'm using this Justace "trout grip kit": [voodoorods.com]

I really dig the wood in the reel seat, and the pre-drilled 10mm hole requires minimal arboring to provide a tight fit on the p700 blank. Very pleased with how this is looking.

Worth noting that the cork on the grip and hood cover is very pale/light out of the box but takes on a much deeper/richer color that closes matches the wood of the seat when you apply U40.

I use U40 on all my cork but it usually don't make this significant of a color change.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2024 02:51PM by Patrick Coco.

I never thought to do a spiral wrap. I’ll have to look into that. Btw I just joined the site so I’m unsure how PMs work around here. Thank you for all of the info!