If you happen to have an extra calking gun, it will work in essentially the same way as the quick clamp and it works well indeed.

The reason that I use titebond III is that it is much less expensive than epoxy.
Titebond III uses water clean up.

So, after I have drilled out the ring to match its spot on the blank, I will slip it on my arbor that I modify as needed and create a tape arbor so that the threaded rod essentially matches the rod blank.

Then, I coat the rings, and slip them in place. I tighten up the washers and nuts that clamp the rings together until the rings are tight. Then ,I use a water wet rag to completely wipe all of the excess glue off of the exterior of the cork rings.

It is nice not to have any glue at all on the outside of the rings that you have to cut off with your sand paper and or lathe tool when you begin to shape the rod. Also, titebond III leaves essentially no glue line.

After letting the grip cure over night, I remove the threaded arbor that I use for the clamp, and use a water wetted rag to wipe all of the wet glue off of the arbor. Because titebond III is an air cure, the inside of the rings cure much more slowly than the exterior. Then ,I use the tapered arbor to essentially push any wet glue out of the hole in the rings multiple times, wiping off the arbor with a water wetted rag in between each operation.

By doing this, when It comes time top do the final work and fitting there will be no sharp dried glue on the inside of the blank that could possibly scratch the blank when it is put in place.

Then, I set the grip aside for another day to get the complete grip - inside and outside fully dried with the glue cured.

--
However, if I don't have the schedule to spend the cure time, I will use 30 minute, 15 minute, or 5 minute epoxy to glue the cork together. But as you all know, that the actual working time of epoxy at 70 degrees is about 1/2 the published time for an epoxy cure.
i.e. the 30 minute epoxy has a working time of about 15 minutes. The 15 minute epoxy has a working time of about 8 minutes. Finally the 5 minute epoxy has a working time of only about 3 minutes, so it is pretty tough to do an entire grip with 5 minute epoxy and get it all cleaned up, before the glue kicks.

My epoxy glue of choice is one that has a cure time of 30 minutes. This time allows me to do a full long rear grip (of individual cork rings) a reel seat and arbor, and a fore grip (of individual rings) if every thing is prepped and you make no mistakes.
I do this if I am doing the grip shaping on the full length rod blank.

Best wishes.



Best wishes.

What Matt said about using cork ring clamps for handles and reel seats is exactly right. That's why I slotted the center hole in of the 1 x 2's of my gluing jig. I can use it for gluing up reel seats and grips while they're on the rod.

I also slotted the holes for the threaded shafts just to avoid having to completely remove the wing nuts and washers when I want to store it.

Like Matt said, no need to reinvent the wheel.

David,
Good point on elongated holes. I made a wood one similar to what you describe with elongated holes. I'm thinking now I'll do that to the quick grip so blank or mandrel can just drop right in.