If that’s the case, use Alconites for the entire set.

SIC reduction guides will not likely net any performance or longevity gains.

Different lines, monofilament and braid for example, exhibit different degrees of flexibility and produce different sized loops when cast from a spinning rod - and big, stiff line loops reduce casting distance. When used on spinning reels in colder temperatures many monofilament lines exhibit a significant increase in stiffness and loop size. Relatively large, stiff loops passing through guides make a significant difference in a rod's casting performance - a bigger difference than the composition of the guide ring. Warm water anglers need not worry.

Thats a good question you didnt mention what type and test of line you will be using? Personally , on an ultra lite , i would use the minima M frame in the sizes Norm suggested and also the ceramic tip top Mark suggested and use the GPS from Anglers Rsrc (for KLH, not NGC). The frames on the minimas are very easy to bend to adjust the height to get the "bullseye"
TJ

You can run Alconites all the way. All modern guides are capable of running braid exc possibly the cheapest tiptops. I always use SIC tiptops, but the other guides can be anything and they will work well. For an ultra light what would work best is to go with titaniums to get the lightest set possible. You can even run SS Alconites for the reduction guides and titaniums for the runners. Bottom line is the tiptop is likely the only one where premium ring materials could be needed.

I assume that you are using 2-4 lbs mono/fluoro, or sub 8 lbs braid, correct?

For what its worth, Japan's top end UL rods use size 3.5 or 3.0 Fuji running guides. That's all I use too.

And the largest butt guide is 16. Some even use 12.

For an UL rod the PacBay Minima 16M based guide set is lighter, about 30%, than the stainless Fuji KR 16H based guide set. The Minima set weighs about 3 gm, and the KR set weighs about 4.2 gm. However, most of that weight difference is in the the reduction train, due to the stronger frame of the KR guides. If you are going to use stainless KR guides than use the Alconite set, there is really no weight or performance difference when compared to a Sic set. The Titanuim Fuji KR guides are lighter than the stainless KR guides, but they do cost much more.
Norm

Tom,
While I may lack your infinite rod building wisdom and experience, I certainly recognize the virtually fool-proof guide train method of execution from Fuji and their KR Concept. It is probably safe to say that Fuji has more experience in our industry than all the rod builders within rodbuilding.org, COMBINED. With all due respect, your statement “You may be able to get that "bull's eye" but the spacing will be horrible. Or you may be able to get good spacing, but the "bull's eye" is not obtainable” is incorrect. I achieve BOTH, EACH AND EVERY TIME, when using Fuji’s KR Concept guidelines and KL-H / KB / KT guides within their “pre-selected guide set”. It truly is a no-brainer = quick, easy, no guesswork, no need to purchase extra guides! Once again, bullseye the reduction train, static load test the runners and reduction trains, thread wrap ‘em and you’re done = perfect every time. I do not know what type guides you are using or the build procedures you prescribe to, but I am certainly glad I chose Fuji!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Hunter,
In reply to 2 of your other questions; 1. One does not HAVE to mount the “handle/reel seat” before the guides, but it is common practice to do so. I think it is easier to align the guides to the seat than inversely aligning the seat to the guides. Furthermore, having the real which will be used mounted to the seat with the line threaded through the temporarily positioned guides will facilitate achieving precisely mounted reduction guides. 2. If the lightest possible weight is paramount, use the Minima M guides (without a ceramic ring). But keep in mind that part of their light weight is due to a minimal frame as well which equates to being less robust than others. If ceramic rings are desired, Pac Bay offers “Hialoy Match Guides”; they APPEAR to be the same frame as the Ms but I am not certain of that. But if you do want ceramics, go with the Fuji KL-H, KB, KT with alconite rings; they are noticeably stouter. It is doubtful ANY line will groove ANY ceramic ring from ANY manufacturer. Some, like SiC, are quite brittle and hence more fragile. While different types of ceramics may provide increased performance by polishing smoother for less friction or dissipating heat better to reduce line wear, it is a prime example of SPLITTING HAIRS not to mention some come with a ridiculously high price tag. Alconite is a perfect balance between excellent performance and reasonable cost.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Rod builders do well to consider rods as only one component in an integrated system of rod, reel, line, and casting weight - all of which need to act in harmony - complement one another.

My 12 ft. 1 - 4Kg match rod (UL) has held 500, 1000, 1500, and 2000 reels, usually 4 to 8 lb. Ande Tournament, or Maxima UltraGreen over these many years. The stripper is a double foot 10 mm match guide, and I've found no need to change it. It has been effective for everything from pan fish to steelhead.

Follow Norms advice and use the runners of your choice. You don't need SIC

Hunter, IMO, you will be fine with Alconites for runners. Further, I think you would be more than fine with Alconites all the way on this build.

Greetings. I have a similar Question on Guides but for a different blank. (Not trying to Hijack anything but not certain if I need to start a new thread)

I have only built 2 Rods So Far(Both Ice Fishing Rods with Cork Grip No Reel Seat), a Bass Kang Power Noodle and and a Bass Kang Panfish Carbon.
(With the Guides available at the site)

With the NFC sale going on I purchased a NFC FW 601-1(IM) Blank and a NFC 1K-IPS3.75-2.0 Soft Touch Grip to go with it.

I am using this for Trout Fishing in Small Streams in WI. Usually use a Pflueger 25 size Reel. Usually I have been using Fluorocarbon Line .

So I did find the Anglers Resource for KR Guide Spacing.
I would do the 16H 8H 5.5m Then would it be the 4F Runners?

I see that American Tackle Makes a TiForge Guide that is Cheaper than the Fuji Titanium and seem to have similar heights but don't see an equivalent of the KB Guide.
(KL-H, and KF seem okay) I also don't see a lot of information or recommendations for them.

The Fuji Titanium are too expensive. But maybe there is a diminishing return on weight vs Cost at some point? Should I just do the Fuji SS Alconites?

Thanks for any help.