I would use it to both apply finish and let cure. I assume it's easier to apply at 18? But does it cure better at 9? Opinions please.

I have the 9. Would definitely like to have something faster for applying.

It's easier to get straight edges at the end of a wrap with faster speeds (I apply, spread and do my edges at about 200 rpm), but it's also more difficult to do detail work around guide feet. For application purposes the best of both worlds is faster speed (for straight edges) and a slip clutch so you can pause the blank from turning to do detail work as necessary.

For drying, 9 or 18 doesn't matter. They'll both get the job done.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2015 09:20AM by John E Powell.

If you want to go the economical way, just buy 2 different motor speeds. One for applying and the other for drying. You can find them on @#$%& for 8.00

Or for a couple of bucks more, Mudhole, at least U will know what U are getting.....plus advice if U need it.

you will find most builders apply at a fast rate 20 RPM to 50 RPM an some even faster, the drying rate is slow . 5 to 15 RPM
after a few rode's you will find out what you like I use 8 RPM to dry an 32 RPM to apply ,
what I found was applying at the faster rate I get a better finish on my guides clean an crisp,
watch the FLEX COAT demo movies [ YOUTUBE ] , he applied at a fast speed then goes to the drying rack [ slower RPM ]

William Sidney
AK

I essentially do the same as William.

I apply finish with my power wrapper and then, if I have another rod in cue, will transfer to a 6 rpm dryer.
But, if I don't have another rod in cue, I will just set the turning rate on my power wrapper at a speed of 6-10 rpm for overnight drying.

Take care

For drying either will work just fine. For applying - the faster the better. I've seen some sold by American Tackle that run at 36 RPM

Talk to Roger Wilson He should be able to build you a dryer to apply at fast speed The just lower the speed

Bill - willierods.com

At 18 RPM it will take 3 seconds to make one turn of the rod. That is a very long time to try and hold your hand steady. Even a second is a long time in truth. Why not turn the blank by hand to apply the finish and then transfer to the dryer?

If I wanted something to rotate the blank for me while I applied the finish, I'd be thinking at least 100 RPM and 300 RPM wouldn't be out of the question. 300 RPM is only five revolutions per second. You'd be surprised how fast you can turn it by hand.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I used to apply on 9 foot fly rods with a 6rpm motor. it was not ideal. i've moved to a 15rpm motor and have wrapped one rod with it. much much better. between the 9 and the 18, i'd go for the 18. now i can't tell you if it cures better at 6rpm vs 9 vs 15 vs 18. but i noticed nothing different in the curing of that one rod i did at 15rpm.

a slip clutch is really nice. but when you want to do detail work, can't you simply shut off the dryer motor and freehand it? i can with mine. i just keep the inline switch in the cord on the counter next to me and rotate the rod for detail work.

btw, i too was considering that CRB rod dryer. in the end, i decided to simply buy an inexpensive motor, ($7?) and use it to update the original wood dryer i had.

eric
fresno, ca.

Ken Preston Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> For drying either will work just fine. For
> applying - the faster the better. I've seen some
> sold by American Tackle that run at 36 RPM

Speaking of rod dryers Ken, have you heard any more on the elusive RDS or RD3 three motor dryer? I'd like to get at least one to try out.

Tom

It's listed in the mudhole catalog still. When I spoke with Todd at the ICRBE they hadn't received the shipment. Since I had extra motors & scrap pieces of plywood I went ahead & fabricated one for myself. Also since the one pictured has the "high side" to the front on theirs if mounted left to right I reversed it so the highest motor is to the rear & built a four level model with wider staggering between the motors & I'm using roller supports that I had on hand already so I can also stagger the distance between the motor and rod supports. I did that because I build a variety of rod types (heavy trolling through light spinning rods) and the guide spacing will vary. So, effectively I took a good idea & modified it for my needs. Coupled with a drum dyer for short multipiece rods I have 8 "stationary" driers as well as a drum dryer that will hold 12 shorter rod sections.