Hi, when applying my first coat of finish should i apply finish past the threads and create a neat edge or should that be done with the 2nd coat? Also do you have any tips for getting finish in the space under guide feet on double foot guides? found it kind of difficult and i got finish on the blank in front o that area. My dryer doesnt have a slip clutch but i could see that being a big help. I'ts on my list..... thanks, mark
ps. also could you give me some tips on creating a nice line with finish at the edge of thread wraps?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2015 03:34PM by Mark Vanderhoof.

Mark,
Always apply a nice edge on any coat of finish. Depending on the finish and application, you may need only one coat.
To get the finish under the guide feet, just let the rod be at 90 degrees or 60 degrees to the space, stop the rod and the finish will just flow into the space with thin finish.

The faster that you apply finish at the edge of a wrap, the cleaner the edge.

Be safe

Watch our video at the link below.

[www.youtube.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

In between the guide feet I hand turn with a THIN finish As said 60 - 90 or left and right Put a thin coat on THIN then when all is covered start the turner and coat the feet - Make an edge

Bill - willierods.com

that flex coat video john referenced is very informative. a slip clutch is handy to have but really it is not necessary at all. i don't have one. do you apply finish while the rod is on a dryer? if so, how fast does your rod dryer turn? as roger said, the faster the rod turns, the cleaner (and easier) it is to get a nice edge. i went from a 6rpm dryer to a 15rpm and it's so much nicer and easier. roger's idea of always applying a nice edge on any coat of thread finish is also a good rule to follow. yeah, i'm finding myself to be a roger wilson fan (lol).

keep in mind, a rod dryer is not necessary in applying finish well. many do not use one except for the actual drying process. i do though, it works well for my workflow. when hitting detail work, i keep the dryer off, then turn it on for the main thread work and edges. just always remember to level the rod in the dryer before you begin.

eric
fresno, ca.

Eric,

I use to fight getting the guide foot tunnels full, especially on spinning rods with large wider guide feet. I started giving my wraps two coats of Perma Gloss, let it dry overnight then applied the epoxy the next day. The Perma Gloss is very thin and fills the guide foot channels nicely, dries quickly, (1 h.r between coats), and creates a glass smooth finish to which the epoxy is applied. I keep the Perma Gloss in the refrigerator and take it out only longer enough to pour a very little amount into a small mixing cup. I have my current bottle for over a year and it still is fine. The wraps come out like glass.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Don, a question for you. If the need to remove a guide arises, how difficult is it to do so when Permagloss is used as a first coat?

Thanks for the tips guys. I used light gray thread no CP with silver trim wraps. All of my silver tag ends show through the main wraps. How do I avoid this? thanks, mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2015 10:42PM by Mark Vanderhoof.

Probably the best thing to do, is to not worry about the silver tag ends. It just makes it another characteristic of a great rod build.

But, if you don't want the trim thread to show, then just use NCP thread. I very much dislike the finished appearance of NCP thread, or conventional nylon thread with CP applied, but every one has their own preferences.

Take care

I have no problem at all with the tag ends showing beneath my wraps, but i rarely use metallic thread. Silver rocks. Consider it a feature! :)

eric
fresno, ca.

Filling the guide tunnels is very important to help support the guide. Guides do not fit precisely to the contour of the blank so it is important to fill that space under the guide also. What I do is fill the tunnels before doing anything else. Use a stylus or even a needle and apply drop by drop to the tunnel entrances. The thread will wick the finish into the tunnel and under the guide feet.. Do this repeatedly until the thread stops wicking finish into the tunnel. You will see the thread getting darker and darker along the guide foot. Eventually the finish will stop wicking because there is no more room under and around the guide foot. Then before you finish the rest of the wrap take some UN-WAXED dental floss and and wipe all the excess off the blank that is between the guide feet. Use a tooth - threader to make it easier to insert the floss under the guide DO NOT use coffee filter strips for this. It will leave fibers. If necessary run some NDA down the floss to get all excess finish off. Then finish the rest of the wrap.
Herb

Thanks Guys! I love the look of translucent thread but wasnt expecting to see the silver tag ends. It doesnt look bad but wasnt sure if i had done something improperly.... mark

Unles there is a way to hide the work I always put any work at the bottom of the rod This way the top ( as fished ) looks well transparent thread shows it all Still try to make it look as neat as you can

Bill - willierods.com

I do as Bill, all tag end on the same axis and bottom.

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Eric
[www.emfishing.fr]

If the silver trim is at the end of the wrap you could try the nail knot method. I usually use CP to glue the trim down before I trim the tags off, so that might not work for your case where you don't want CP on your gray thread. But metallic is kinda stretchy so maybe it'll hold without CP - I just found using CP easy.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI