I have read many post about heating the finish to get it level after you apply it. A number of people use a heat gun or hair dryer. Doesn't this give more opportunity for dust to get into the finish. Would a light bulb held under the wrap for a short time work better?

I use a micro butane torch...just have to be careful not to get too close or stop too long.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

I don't think many would use a hair dryer, as like you say it will create dust. I prefer an alcohol flame Torch/lamp, levels the finish nicely and great for removing bubbles.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2014 01:15PM by Steve Mcleod.

I have a couple of goose neck lamps that I lower to about 4" above the rod while rotating. Works well for me.

I also use a small butane torch - always keep it moving, never sit in a spot for long.

The finish will level itself - check the finish in your mixing cup if you don't believe it.

Heating is generally done for just two reasons - to remove bubbles and to help the mix reflow if you took too long applying it to the rod. In that latter case, the reflow allows it to level. You have to be careful though - too much heat will boil the finish resulting in micro bubbles, as well as causing the epoxy to lose some of its designed in characteristics.

...............

As Tom says be careful Some finishes if gotten to warm will turn a dark color I use a hair dryer Start it away from the rod so any dust blows out of it But I don't heat too much I let it level itself
Unless you have a problem to try and fix and your place is warm I would not

Bill - willierods.com

I did a first coat on a bare rod where the decal will go and it did not level very well, the rest of the rod did. I will try another thin coat and use an alcohol burner and warm it after I apply the second coat and see if that helps.
Thanks for the help.

If you did the guides AND the decal area the finish may have started to set up
It will be better to do the guides and then when doing the decal area mix a new batch

Bill - willierods.com

if I have a bubble or some need to "heat it" I just blow on it. Hot breath with do the trick without fear of buring or scorching the finish.

Yep if only I could go back in time. I realized what I had done afterwords. It has been a few years since I have built any rods and forgot some of those things.

I had trouble with wavy epoxy until someone told me that they go against the grain and apply very very thin epoxy coats in the rod length direction. I also switched from a high-build epoxy to a more normal or low build epoxy. Between switching to a low build and applying very thin coats in the rod length direction I've masted the smooth level finish. I was also getting small bubbles in the finish before I made the change and now I don't. I also don't apply the finish with the rod turning. I also started to mix my epoxy in a mixer. I may have a few small bubbles in the finish before applying so a straw and my breath will take care of those. Sometimes a small amount of heat is also used, but very rarely. The method that I use now is really quite different from when I first started. Need to do what works for you.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

I always use heat from a heat gun on all of my rods.

I keep the shop free of dust and the heat gun is always allowed to blow for a bit, before directing toward a rod.

I have never had an issue with dust in the finish.

As I have always said, I use brief bursts of heat on the finish. Just enough to thin the finish where it is needed and never any issues.

I find it easier to direct the heat from the heat gun as opposed to a flame.

Be safe

I use a heat gun all the time, and if anyone see dust in the finish I'd have to charge them extra for it.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

I never use heat of any kind any longer - haven't for years. Used to use a soldering iron held over or under wraps.
If the finish is wrong I use a dry brush and wipe it off. If the finish is too cured to do that I wet a brush with alcohol - wipe it all off and re-do.
herb

Well I used an alcohol burner last night after I put another coat on and it leveled right out. Thanks for all your help!

60W light bulb about 5-6" above turning rod (GENTLE HEAT !!!)

rog

The 60W bulb works well when you know there are no more air bubbles possible. If not sure you could end up with cured air bubbles in the finish. Don't ask how I know this, luckily I caught it early enough to correct the situation.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!