Hi guys,

I'm getting tired of my cheap drying motors burning out and or shaft becomes loose.
I'm wanting to buy a Dayton gearmotor. Any suggestions or advice on RPM?
I'm looking at a 6rpm or 18rpm

Thanks in advance

James:
I have both RPM motors I got from FlexCoat years ago. I don't really have a preference for either speed. John

James,
Be very careful on your selection of motors that will be used for long periods of time.
Many of the Dayton and other motors that are larger than the small timing motors are of the split phase variety.
You can determine if a motor is a split phase motor by the heavy single copper wires that is wrapped around the iron laminates. It is this single wire that forms the definition of a split phase motor that causes the problem.
This wire is used to start the motor. But the problem is that after starting, this wire still circulates electricity and continues to heat the motor.
If you do not use a cooling fan, this type motor gets much too hot for safe long term running. This type motor is just fine for intermittent use of say 1 minute on and 5 minutes off to allow the motor to cool down.

So, if you do decide to go with one of the larger industrial style motors for better life, then either use a split phase motor with a built in cooling fan, or add an external cooling fan; or go with a capacitor start style fan. With a capacitor start fan, the capacitor is used for starting but then does not continue to draw current and heat during normal motor running.

Many folks use motors that range from 6-18 rpm. I personally use a motor that turns at 8 rpm.

--------------------------------------
By the way, another option for a gearmotor is to use a DC motor, as opposed to the typical AC motor.
Then, power the motor with a small plug in dc power supply of the appropriate voltage.
I have personally switched all of my motors over to DC motors for some of the same reasons that you mention.

---------------------
For example:
[www.amazon.com]

Then a power supply of this style:
[www.amazon.com]

Since the motor only draws 150 ma, and the power supply sources 2 amps or 2,000 ma of current, you could run a bunch of drying motors from this single supply with no problems.

The one issue that you have to work with is the shaft size of these motors. Many of these smaller motors use a 6 mm shaft, so you need to make an adapter to adapt the 6 mm shaft to the size bolt that you use to attach your chuck to the motor.
If you have a lathe, it is an easy task to drill out a piece of aluminum as needed to make an appropriate motor to chuck adapter.

Be safe

James,
Be very careful on your selection of motors that will be used for long periods of time.
Many of the Dayton and other motors that are larger than the small timing motors are of the split phase variety.
You can determine if a motor is a split phase motor by the heavy single copper wires that is wrapped around the iron laminates. It is this single wire that forms the definition of a split phase motor that causes the problem.
This wire is used to start the motor. But the problem is that after starting, this wire still circulates electricity and continues to heat the motor.
If you do not use a cooling fan, this type motor gets much too hot for safe long term running. This type motor is just fine for intermittent use of say 1 minute on and 5 minutes off to allow the motor to cool down.

So, if you do decide to go with one of the larger industrial style motors for better life, then either use a split phase motor with a built in cooling fan, or add an external cooling fan; or go with a capacitor start style fan. With a capacitor start fan, the capacitor is used for starting but then does not continue to draw current and heat during normal motor running.

Many folks use motors that range from 6-18 rpm. I personally use a motor that turns at 8 rpm.

--------------------------------------
By the way, another option for a gearmotor is to use a DC motor, as opposed to the typical AC motor.
Then, power the motor with a small plug in dc power supply of the appropriate voltage.
I have personally switched all of my motors over to DC motors for some of the same reasons that you mention.

---------------------
For example:
[www.amazon.com]

Then a power supply of this style:
[www.amazon.com]

Since the motor only draws 150 ma, and the power supply sources 2 amps or 2,000 ma of current, you could run a bunch of drying motors from this single supply with no problems.

The one issue that you have to work with is the shaft size of these motors. Many of these smaller motors use a 6 mm shaft, so you need to make an adapter to adapt the 6 mm shaft to the size bolt that you use to attach your chuck to the motor.
If you have a lathe, it is an easy task to drill out a piece of aluminum as needed to make an appropriate motor to chuck adapter.

Be safe

If you wanted to go with an AC motor, you could certainly go with one like this:
[www.grainger.com]

Although this is a shaded pole motor, it does come with an integrated cooling fan.
It also comes with needle bearings in the cover which would lend very long life to the motor.

---------------------------------------------
Or, if you had a stand a lone fan to cool the motor, you could use this one:
[www.grainger.com]

-----------------------------
However, of the small motors, this would be the best one, since it is split capacitor:

[www.grainger.com]

With the capacitor that is used for starting, there is no motor heating from the split phase winding.
Notice, that you also have to purchase the 4 mfd capacitor that is used as a starting capacitor when you purchase this motor. The motor will have 4 leads coming from the motor. Two leads that go to the AC power and the two other leads that are used to connect to the 4 mfd starting capacitor. But a nic quiet cool running motor.

Be safe

I use a dayton motor the p/n is 3M099 , they are available from Zoro Tools about 55.00. No capacitor needed and they operate on 110v.