I have found the label rating on braid to be misleading to the point of being useless. In one extreme case I found a leading brands 5# braid to test out stronger than their 10# braid despite being thinner.

I have always suspected the ratings might be more about breaking strength of the casually tired quick and dirty knots and/or shock ratings. I know of no "quick and easy" knot for tying braid to mono that is worth using. If you want anything remotely close to 100% it seems one has to resort to a bimini twist on the braid tied to an improved bristol.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

FWIW, my further “tests”(with 30 and 40 lb Samurai) have indicated that 40 pound Samurai would be comparable to 20 pound Power Pro SS8 or Sufix 832 in both thickness and break strength (Sufix is slightly more dia). The way that I tested, the knots were part of the failure results as every break was at the knot (Uni or Palomar).
In summary:
Samurai 20 lb dia=.006” breaks @ 13 lbs 1 oz
Samurai 30 lb dia=.007” breaks @ 19 lbs 4 oz
Samurai 40 lb dia=.009” breaks @ 24 lbs 1 oz
PP SS8 20 lb dia=.009” breaks @ 24 lbs 8 oz
Sufix 832 10lb dia=.008” breaks @ 15lbs 9oz
Sufix 832 20 lb dia=.010” breaks @ 20 lbs 1 oz

The “diameter” shown is obviously a misnomer because of the braid collapsing. I measured the line flattened (thickness) with calipers. If both the flat width and length could have been measured, the resulting area would’ve been more indicative of the actual diameter.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2013 09:58AM by jim spooner.

Better off with Mono

Bill - willierods.com

I find this thread very interesting - I started my fishing with black line or braided silk - then mono - then better mono - now braid, fluoro, copolymers and mono - they all have their applications and if you have breakage issues something is wrong with the balance of your set up - the only braid breakage issue I've ever had was due to cracked guides - you cannot fish frogs successfully on mono or fluoro - they all have their uses - learn to tie good knots - use appropriate rod actions and line strengths - bass fishermen use over strength line because of the environment the fish is in - I knew musky fishermen who, when first using, broke braid on the cast when they backlashed - softer tips help with this issue. The lack of stretch makes pool cue rods not as necessary as they once were. While guiding in the keys almost all the guides I knew were using braid on spinning reels for lack of twist problems, distance and more line on the spool.
I now build rods with the line in mind.

I figure that the knot is, in most cases, the “weakest link in the chain” and I based my testing on normal fishing conditions….I.E. replicating the line as normally tied to a lure with the knot that I would normally use. Since break-offs have seldom been an issue for me, I haven’t pursued looking into a knot that might perform better than the Uni- knot. There are undoubtedly better/stronger knots, but the Uni is easy to tie …even in the wind. I also feel that if a breakage should occur, I’d prefer it to be at the knot rather than somewhere along the line which may require me to re-spool the line to keep the optimum (full) spool capacity.

Further testing has shown that doubling the line around the hook, the break-off values increase. Surprisingly, the Samurai significantly more so than the Power Pro SS8 or the Sufix 832.

The amended test results:
Samurai 20lb .006” dia break fail @ 13- 1 (15- 5 w/line doubled around hook)
Samurai 30 lb .007” dia break fail @ 19- 4 (23-9 w/line doubled around hook)
Samurai 40lb .009” dia break fail @ 24-1 (28-11 w/line doubled around hook)
PP SS8 10lb .008 dia
PP SS8 20lb .009 dia break fail @ 24-8 (25-4 w/line doubled around hook)
Sufix 832 10lb .008 dia break fail @ 15-9
Sufix 832 20lb .010 dia break fail @ 20-1 (20-11oz w/line doubled around hook)
PP 10lb .008 dia
PP 20lb .011 dia

Notes:
The “diameter” is actually the measured (calipers) thickness of the line.
Uni-knots were used for these tests.
Break fail given is pounds-ounces



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2013 10:03AM by jim spooner.

Jim, do I understand correctly that you tie the braid directly to the lure? Hmmm, thought a clear (mono/fluro) leader was required for visibility reasons.

In any case, since you don't seem to mind testing, give the palomar knot a try. I would say it is easier and stronger. Might be a pain on long lures with treble hooks though.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russ,
Yes. The Bass that I fish for can see the braid, they just don’t care (Ha). Years ago when I first started using braid, I did use a leader, but I eventually concluded that it made little difference in the waters I fish. Eliminating it leaves one less weak point and is less hassle. I still do use a short (12”) leader on some propped top-waters to prevent line snagging.

I’ve gotten similar results with the Palomar on a couple of my tests. I have more confidence in the Uni and it’s easier for me to tie.

One of the surprising conclusions I found in my testing was how much difference doubling the line around the hook made (not the knot itself). I’ve done it before on occasions where I thought it would provide better abrasion resistance, but never thought it could actually strengthen the knot.