Saying all braids are basically the same because the base materials are the same, is like saying all graphite blanks are such because they use the same base materials.

Mile;
Very good way to prove your point.
Some times I'm amazed that people take what is written on the internet as gospel.
Terry ;
I'm not sure who wrote the last article you posted on braid. But I can tell you that you won't find any P.P. in my boat, regardless of what he thinks.

Steve Gardner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Saying all braids are basically the same because
> the base materials are the same, is like saying
> all graphite blanks are such because they use the
> same base materials.
>

Bingo, absolutely correct.

I have used most braids over the last 15 years and can say anyone that says they are all the same simply has never used them, yes some are similar but some are worlds apart.

A fused Fireline is a totally different animal compared to a 16 carrier JB hollow core even though their base material is mfg from the same base materials they are built for different applications.

You need to try them and see what you like best and for what reason, some fishing requires a line that is more abrasion resistant like many of the fused lines where sometimes a very limp supple line is required or preferred.

The person who wrote the article is a product tester for a magazine, so maybe he is biased due to who pays for the advertising I don't know. E-how could very well be wrong and I don't believe everything on the net, including this site, to say that everyone else is wrong and I am right is a pretty bold statement from anyone. Everybody tries to validate their point based on personal experience. I spend the same amount if not more time on the water including 60 days of tournament fishing than most here. Does that mean I am the expert, heavens no!! I have some of the original power pro on two reels and I trust it to this day. I don't buy 1500 yards spools because I don't have to change out superlines that often and if I did I would be looking for a better product. I use nothing stronger than 6 pound test and it serves me well. I use three brands of line, PP, 832, and nanofil, each has properties that I like in certain instances not one is better in all cases. For the original poster I would advise him to buy some different types and see what works best for HIM, if you limit yourself to one brand of line, one brand of reel, and one brand of blank then you are limited in finding your ultimate set up that every fisherman tries to achieve in my opinion. I am thinking the OP was looking for more than one option or opinion. To say no brand x in my boat is subjective to that persons opinion and that opinion is no less or no more valuable than any other poster. I learn of all posters personal opinions and take it into consideration but base my findings on my own real world experience and that is all my posts are about, I do not bad mouth any builder or company, if I don't like the product I don't buy it I am my own sponser so I am not beholding to any company, if I don't agree with the way to build I only post my likes I don't run the person down and I am not saying anyone on here does. That is my two cents worth.

Braid has its place - I guided in the everglades and without braid my specialty "frog fishing" would have been impossible - I ended up liking sufix braid but used them all - I use 832 for underwater stuff - I did learn to use rods with softer tip sections - it is important to know if a customer is planning on using mono/flouro or braid with an outfit.

I might of instigated the whole power pro bashing, but I am only speaking from experience. Anyone who says that there is no difference in braids since they are essentially the same materials must not fish because there are many differences in the suppleness and fishing properties between brands easily noticed. You can supply all the technical data you want but that means nothing when you break off easily with brand new line or have a massive wind knot shoot off. Yes you can prevent some knots by your rotor position, line height, checking for spool wraps, etc. but I shouldn't have to go through a huge checklist to make a cast. Use better line. I fish sebastian inlet and often cast long distances in heavy winds, deal with large fish in heavy current, and there are more rocks and obstructions then you can imagine so I feel that this puts braid to the test. You may not need nearly the braid properties that my type of fishing requires and pp may work fine. I know of one person who will not use 832 and Ultracast because it is too tough to break off when snagged which to me is a good problem to have. Im not one to tell anyone what they should use but if you want to base it solely on internet research the general consensus on 832 is very well received and power pro not so much. I never tried it at first due to cost until I did my research, now I am much happier and it ends up being more cost effective in the long run then the $9 power pro spools I used to buy. Check out SOL since this topic comes up about once a week. Give them all a try and form your own opinion but just do me a favor and include 832 in your testing pool.

Although I’ve experimented with quite a few braided lines, my preference so far leans toward PP Super Slick and Sufix 832. I like Samurai, but I seem to have a lot of break-offs and I’m inclined to believe that it’s the result from their line ratings being close to actual break strength, as opposed to other lines being significantly underrated (much higher break strengths).

I’ve done a lot of research on braided lines, but trial and error have always been more conclusive for me. BTW, here are several web sites that are pretty informative.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2013 04:23PM by Tom Kirkman.

I like PP and have been using it on all of my reels since 07. I fish for bass and fish alot of tournaments through out the year. Over the years I have tried several different brands and PP works best for me. I will say that I think a lot of bass fisherman make the mistake of not using heavy enough braid, people will use 20 and 30 lb braid for flipping and other heavy line techniques. This to me is defeating the advantage of braid, why use a 8 or 10 lb diameter braid for such tactics, even though it has a 20 or 30 lb rating, it will not do the job as well. I have found that I can snap 20 to 30 lb braid on the hook set. So I use 50 and 65 lb and have no problems. Just my opionion for what it is worth.

When it counts inshore, I default to the Samurai, especially line under 40lbs. Stuff lasts a long time and casts a mile. In terms of value, Mike P. hit the nail on the head. For ever spool of Samurai, I can go throw 2-3 spools of PowerPro. For offshore, I have been switching over to hollow braids like Jerry Brown or Toro Tamer. Packs better on the big spools, gives some extra capacity, lays flat so limits any digging and you can serve your leader connection whch is nice when fishing wind on's etc...

Many moons ago when I started using braid, I chose Power Pro because the serious bass guys around here swore by it. Also used Suffix 832 for a season then Suffix regular braid since then because I like the bright orange color. I've NEVER had a problem with any of the braids - casting, breaking, or otherwise. Nor do I know anyone who has had a problem with any of them (bass, walleye, musky fishing). Now, a pike or musky can certainly cut the line but that's not a line problem.
For stealth I always use a flourocarbon leader.

John

X10 on Jack's comments.

If you have problems with line breaking, just use heavier lb test line.

Many folks around here commonly use 50 and even up to 80 lb test for their fishing needs. They use this line with great success.

Be safe

I think this is another classic case where the difference between fresh water fishing and salt water fishing makes a huge difference. Also line class.

Some of the fused lines are great for very light line class fishing. From what I have seen American anglers never really took to fishing 2 or 3# braid in the salt very much. The Aussie gents seem to do it a lot.

The fresh water guys (over here) seem to use very heavy line in relation to the size of the fish. As Roger mentioned, they might use 50, 65 or 80# for bass and walleye. They aren't concerned with line capacity. They don't expect the fish to take any appreciable amount of line against their drag settings. I doubt they spend much time/thought/effort on the mono to braid interface. As Jack said, if you break 30# on a hookset (on a blank not capable of dead lifting that) just move up to heavier braid.

Now us salt water guys are often fishing braid so we can get the maximum amount of line on the reel. We are looking to use a physically smaller reel than we could with straight mono. In some cases we might load the reel with braid and then put upwards of a 100 yards of mono on top. Then we are looking for the mono to be the weak link so the braid will be a heavier rating. We are expecting (or should I say hoping?) our fish will make long and repeated runs measured in hundreds of yards against our drag settings. Under those conditions things like the coating on the line becomes important. How quickly the business end of that braid frays is important. How it behaves with knots is important. Heck some of us simply won't tolerate/trust a knot in braid and use hollow braid with mono slipped/spliced/served/crimped inside it.

So really my point is.....when asking for advice ask yourself if the guy giving advice has knowledge that applies to you. To the OP, I'd suggest looking at what the guys on the salt water flats and/or nearshore reef fish like jacks/cuda/mackeral are using would bear fruit. After all, steelhead are salt water fish who are now back in fresh water. Needless to say none live in my area. I can only judge from the quality of the rod blanks. Those would lead me to think a steelhead is a serious adversary capable of good runs. I darn sure wouldn't think they fight like a largemouth so I darn sure wouldn't use largemouth braid. Just my 2 centsa on the matter and no offence meant to anyone.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I think a lot of this depends on how you are fishing (float, bottom bouncing...) Braid handles well and floats, but in general is not very abrasion resistant. On bass spinning tackle I like the manageability and casting distance of braid but tie on a fluoro leader where necessary. Braid doesn't work well in freezing temps but can work well early and in the spring. Among braids I use Power Pro with no real complaints but also like 832. I'll be trying some Seaguar Kanzen just for kicks. It looks promising.

So if you break off with crap line the solution is to just use heavier braid instead of better line? I am amazed how some guys can get kicks out of skipping tiny bass across the top of the water with 50lb braid or more. Why dont we all just go to 100lb for crappie too and you will never lose a fish. Sorry if Im ignorant, but thats about the dumbest thing I have ever heard then people agree on top of that. I guess I just don't get it and probably never will. I understand that different situations require heavier tests, but some take it beyond overkill.

Tie on a mono or floro leader so ya have some thing that breaks

Bill - willierods.com

Dennis,
One of the biggest problems that folks have had around here with breaking line is a sudden stop on the line causing the line to snap.
This has happens a lot with folks using bait casters, and getting back lash on their line, or getting a wind tangle.
The line is flying off the reel, suddenly the line stops and the expensive lure keeps flying due to parts unknown.

These same folks get tired of replacing expensive lures due to a little tangle or wind knot. This happens a lot with folks who fish for Muskie up in this country and fish with multi oz lures.

Hence the use of line that is many times the required breaking strength, to eliminate this issue.

Another reason that many folks use the heavier line is for the thicker line that doesn't bury itself in the reel and cause jams, knots and break offs. In most of these cases, it is just a matter of wanting to keep a line in the water, without losing lures, and without spending hours untangling or cutting knots out of a reel.

Different reasons for different folks to use a particular line. Everyone that makes a decision, makes that decision, based on his or her particular needs.

In your case, you likely don't have those particular needs or reasons, so enjoy your choice of lb test and brand line - what ever that may be.

50 years of fresh water fishing has convinced me that the large majority of lines break due to operator negligence . No matter what line, if it has a nick, cut, or a bad knot, it will be weakened and the next heavy pull will result in a lost fish or lure. Back in the 90's I fished a tournament on Ross Barnett and my parter that day re-tied his lure after every fish or snag. He was without question the fastest I have ever met at tying knots - he never lost a fish to a break off in the day I spent with him. Since that day I've learned to change my knots frequently. I now live in Terrace Bc and fish for salmon and steelhead most of the time. Line breakage is almost a zero consideration and I use Power Pro on all my steelhead rigs and a mixed bag of 40lb maxima and 40 lb power pro on my Chinook set-ups. There are many good lines on the market - find the line you like; a thread like this one is similar to a 'which oil to you like' on a motorcycle board, it will be a long thread with no conclusion.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2013 12:15PM by P. Wayne Hart.

I just had a client stop by trying to figure out why his braid was popping at random times. He was thinking it was a braid issue but after careful examination, the tip top ring had a very, very small fracture or piece of the SIC missing. The edge of this void was sharp and when the line would come into contact, pop. It was very hard to see but glad we caught it. Quick fix and he is back in love with his brand of braid.

x10 Todd,
A sharp edge or break on any guide can cause huge line breakage problems.

Many times the break or edge is so small as to be very difficult to see and find.

A Q tip that is carefully run around all edges of the guides and tip can often be very helpful in finding these small breaks or edges for your removal and repair.

But, if there is one - remove the issue and the line problems disappear.

Be safe

Roger,
Sorry for my ignorance. I do understand and appreciate what your are saying, and if you have a justifiable reason by all means it is warranted. Im not sure of the names but you may want to look into the braids that allow some stretch, think one is Sufix Stretch, and that may solve some of the problems you explained about breakage. The rounder 8 strand braids have really improved the digging into spool problems I used to have, but Im not a daily baitcast user either. My problem lies in the guys that just use it because its stronger without exploring options, and there are alot of them in my area. The kill line capacity and casting ability, along with overloading the rod ratings in abundance usually to catch very small fish. That, outside the tourney scene where every fish is crucial, I do not understand. Happy Holidays to all!

Although break strength is only one of several attributes to consider when choosing a particular braid, it should be noted that the manufacturer’s line ratings can be misleading. For most of my fishing, 20 pound test Power Pro SS8 and Sufix 832 has been adequate. After trying 20lb Samurai and experiencing several break-offs, I judged it to be inferior and went back to PP and 832. I have since done some “break testing” and determined that the Samurai 20 lb test is more comparable to 10 pound rated PP SS8 or Sufix 832. Surprisingly, the measured “diameter” of the 20 lb Samurai is still slightly smaller than 10 lb rated PP and Sufix. I have ordered some 30 and 40 pound Samurai to see how it’ll compare to 20 pound rated PP SS8 and Sufix 832 in break strength and diameter.