I am curious what other rod builders use to hold the reel seat to the mandrel while turning. I have been using 5 minute epoxy at the end of the blanks. But for me it breaks loose causing the blank to slip on the mandrel. I can get through this by reapplying the 5 minute epoxy (about 3 times). But, there must be a better way.

George Greensboro, N.C.

Masking tape spiral wrapped on the mandrel till it fits tight enought to turn

Bill - willierods.com

I put a twist of masking tape on the mandrel where each end of the wood sits. Just enough tape to hold it snug.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

Bill, The fit to the mandrel is pretty tight. The tape doesn't fit inside.

Chad, do you place the tape to each side? If so how does it hold when you turn?

Ok, here is my work-around. 1. Add tape bushings to each side per Chad's suggestion. 2. Use 5 minute epoxy at the joint between the tape and reel seat blank. I will post results later.

I've moved to using threaded mandrels with a stop collar for reel seats. This eliminates any movement. Available from Mudhole and other suppliers.

Terry

The tape and epoxy combination worked. Thanks for the suggestions.

George Greensboro, N.C.

Terry, I may try a threaded mandrel the next time I need one. For now at least I have a solution. The loose connection has been as annoying as in-laws. Well, maybe not that annoying!

Mandrels don't come with a Taper ????
If not - that is why I like thick walled blanks Taper the piece and it gets tight if the correck mandrel is used
Just make sure they are streight

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 11:08AM by bill boettcher.

I offer threaded mandrels for sale but if you'd like to save a little cash and just use a regular mandrel. Take a look at the photo below.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Lance



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 11:17AM by Swampland.

Another option is not to use mandrels at all and do your turnings between a dead center and a live center. I don't think I've used one is 7 or 8 years.

I've made reel seat bushings from Duronze, Delrin, Aluminium and Corian off the top of my head on my wood lathe.

Here's a real simple set of duronze that has a hole drilled through and a piece of Oak Dowel. On one end I use a #4 Center Drill for the 60º taper for the centers. Turn the OD down and in this case it is .665.

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Sometimes I don't even bother to use bushings and just mount the wood between the centers and turn that way with my calipers handy. A piece of spalted oak.

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Thanks Ron. That's helpful information.

Ron. I made delrin bushings today. Had to order a dead center, so it will be a few days before I can create chips.thanks again.

George Greensboro, N.C.

George,

You may already be aware, but if not, there is a wood working store in Greensboro. They have a pretty decent selection of lathe accessories.

.............

Hi Tom,
Yes I know them pretty well (two trips yesterday). Unfortunately, they do not stock a dead center (60 degree). So I ordered one from Amazon.
I turned a reel seat this morning by placing one bushing in pen jaws. That worked well.

Thanks

George Greensboro, N.C.

George Kerr Wrote:
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> Ron. I made delrin bushings today. Had to order a
> dead center, so it will be a few days before I can
> create chips.thanks again.

Delrin is great stuff ...

You don't have to wait unless you want to.

When I was waiting on my dead centers (ordered a bunch from China for our Pen Maker's Club) I decided to make one.

I took a piece of hard Maple and turned a tenon on one end that closely resembled a MT2 taper ... jammed it in the head stock and then turned the end sticking out to resemble a 60º taper.

Surprisingly this worked very well and took maybe 5-10 minutes to make and easy to remove with the draw bar.

That should work. I found that all I needed to do was put one of the bushings in a set of pen jaws and use for the drive. I didn't experience any complications.