I'm new to rod building and have completed 4 or 5 with another underway. I'm pretty happy with my progression in skills so far. I've come a long way. Actually, I hated building that first rod, and even the second I was wondering why I decided to try doing this. But I'm actually starting to enjoy this madness now.

Where I still seem to be fumbling around, is in applying glass to the rod to finish it off. I can't seem to get a uniform layer of glass on my wraps. I've tried some different things.... first I tried putting a thin layer on, and then coming back to place on another layer only to find that I have something that appears to be a dry/very thin spot on the threads.

I've tried putting a heavy layer on, and using flame to thin it out. Sometimes that works, sometimes I get a wrap that looks like a dumbbell, or has a bulge right in the middle. Maybe I need to try going very, very thin?

I usually use ProWrap size A thread, covered first with RodDancer Chromaseal, and then Threadmaster Lite.

I am using a home made turner that has a fixed speed of 10 RPM.

I don't have problems with bubbles or with the epoxy getting hard. If I could figure out how to consistently get uniform coverage on my wraps, and a non-wavy butt section glassing, I'd be content. As it is, I dread putting the glass on my rod right now for fear of making it look crappy.

Any suggestions? I've searched the web (which is what lead me here) and have not found a bulletproof solution.

Thanks for any help.

Read the article in the "Library" on this site. There is a tab above to access it.

Yes lighter coats is the way to go, but no need to thin just apply let the rod sit and wick off any excess that droops then move to your dryer once it had dripped enough.

Thad
Dutchman's Creek Tackle

First off, it's not glass...it's epoxy.

If you are getting dimples/dry spots, you have some sort of contamination on your wraps that is expelling the epoxy. You need to get to the bottom of that ASAP.

Applying thin layers in multiple coats is no problem. Applying a heavy coat and getting footballs/sagging certainly IS a problem. Even after applying a thin layer I let the rod stand and purposefully allow the finish to sag. I then can wick the excess off the bottom, then turn the rod 90 degrees and repeat the process. After a couple of turn&wick sessions you'll notice the epoxy no longer wants to sag, even if you let it sit for a minute or more. When it no longer sags you have it at it's most optimum...it no longer has enough weight to flow very fast. This is when you put it in the dryer if you have one.

Works for me...but keep in mind, everyone has a different method.

had the same problem I found that if I applied a lot of epoxy at one time , do the out side [both ends] than put on a large amount at a high speed [ speed counts] I use about 30 rpm than change to a slow speed about 10 rpm , stop the motor wripe off the excess that drops , down than start the motor an it should take care of your problem in stopping the moter this is a short time , some people use a old credit card to remove the excess ,you just want the excess don't scrape , I found that I use a large brush to apply the epoxy help a lot , there are a lot of ways to do it this works for me
BILL

Frank,
For most of the rods that I build, I only apply one layer of finish.
However, I first apply finish to all of the areas needing finish. i.e. guides, tip wraps and butt wraps. I always make sure that I have a generous amount so that there are no thin spots or unfilled spots anywhere.
I just make sure that all areas are completely covered.

Then, while the rod continues to turn, I use my heat gun to heat and thin the finish that has been applied to the rod, to insure that all areas of the thread are completely saturated, all bubbles gone and the areas smooth.

Over the first 10 or 15 minutes of rod turning, I will continue to watch the rod very closely. If there is any area where foot balls in the finish are beginning to form, I will hit it with a bit of heat to let the excess finish thin and level. Any time that foot balls form, it is due to too much finish gathering in that area. Over the first 10 or 15 minutes, the finish continues to thicken, so this is the critical time for the finish. Also, if any spots are noted where the finish has gotten into too thin a layer, I will apply a bit more finish and reheat the area just a bit to blend the finish. By the time that 15 minutes have gone by, the entire finish will have thickened sufficiently such that there will be very little more movement on the finish. So, as the rod continues to turn, I will do one more very very close examination of all parts of the rod, and if all is well, just let the rod go for the rest of the drying period. So, in that first 15 minutes, there might be some parts of the rod, that actually have had two or three layers added and heat thinned to achieve the perfect single drying time finish.
This method is likely contrary to many folk's method, but it works very well for myself.

At the end of the drying period, I will take the rod off the dryer, package it and ship it. No need for any more layers or any more drying time.


Try a few different methods of thin, thick, single application, multiple applications etc. to achieve the perfect finish.
However, I think that at the end of the day, you only need enough finish applied to the rod, so that you have all of the thread 100% filled and covered and that you have smooth even edges on the finish, as well as completely filled tunnels around the guides.
But, no need for any more finish than that. Any more finish simply results in extra weight and runs the risk of forming foot balls on the guides and other wraps.

Thank you for the great replies! I'm heading to go mix up some epoxy now.

Well, thanks again. This has turned out the best and most consistent yet. I used a bunch of advice from above.

I made sure that my chroma seal had two coats and was fully saturated. I used a relatively thin layer of TM Lite, put some heat on it, and after applying stopped the rod and let it sag, then wicked off, then rotate / heat and wick two more times. I have consistent thickness on the guides, and just put on another very thin coat.

I'd like to get to where I just do one coat... But I suspect that is going to take some practice. I need to find some cheap blanks and just practice the finish.

I'm not quite going to say that I am overjoyed at the results, but this is by far the best yet. I do wish I had a rod turner that I could run at higher than 10prm, but I suspect that I should be able to do a good job with what I have. I'm not going to blame the tools.

Thanks again,

Frank

I generally recommend against letting the finish sag - that's the start of most problems. Many folks that have "read" the article only look at the photos, and believe it recommends letting the finish sag. Actually, that photo shows the cause of most uneven finish jobs - finish sagged to the bottom. It's what you don't want.

But if your new procedure is working good for you, stay at it.

.............

I myself like a faster turner It helps to get the finish on faster The edges of wraps streighter
If your place is warm 80 - 90 i would cool it off I find when cooler it helps the finish to stay wet longer and flow better I also do not heat unless I see some thing I need to fix or flow out But then it means I have to heavy a coat on so I stop the turner Let the finish hang and wick it off Then do several 180 turns to make sure any Lumps or sags have flowed
Then turn it on again

It will flow on it's own

Bill - willierods.com

First...if you find what works for you and your technique, stick with it. That's the objective...finding what works and getting in a groove.

I don't recall reading an article so I'm not translating someone else's information. My technique works for me...and again, that is the objective.

I also don't heat my finish with a torch or flame. I apply at room temp and let the epoxy level at room temp. I may, however, heat the room when I let the rod set up if I want to speed the process after I have a level finish.

I'm glad you are experiencing better results.