Becoming a real factor......

Tried the suggestions of the mfg and still having issues with it.

Heating both parts before mixing, mixing for 12-13 minutes on the mixer. Lightly heating finish after application.

Only thing I'm not doing is drying in a heat box.

Suggetions?

Amine blush is caused by a specific ratio of humidity and CO2. Although it does not affect the set nor cure time of the epoxy, it will cause an oily glaze on the surface of the epoxy. It can be removed, over time, or with exposure to warmth.

You're going to have to change the working environment in your finishing area. Where are you doing your finishing?

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Same place I've always finished.

I could see the humidity factor where I finish but any reasons for not seeing this before a couple months ago?

No problems last winter. Same finish. Same place.

Somehow you hit on the just the right combination of humidity and CO2. You're going to have to change something. Either a few degrees more heat or more fresh air, etc. Just a change.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2013 02:20PM by Tom Kirkman.

I'll tweak some things and see how it goes. Appreciate the feedback!

What specific finish are you talking about?

Adam,
If your talking about a slight white haze in the finish, I've had the same problems. I recently finished 8 rods that were exactly the same. The temp and humidity varied each time. My drying box only holds one rod so I only did one at a time. I usually take at least 3 coats of TM regular to get a rod done. Sometimes 4. I applied the warmed finish (I also heat the little bearing you use in the mixing cup/mixer as I am suspicous of cold metals and finish) with the rod up on the table and moved each rod to the drying box after I applied it. My drying box has 2 sixty watt light bulbs to keep it warm. They were all coming out great, but, on rod number 7, I did one thing that varied in my routine after the second coat. Seemed like a warm day and I wanted to give hand turning a try so I let it sit on top of the table in the rod wrapper to dry instead of moving it to the drying box. The amount I put on was so small that I really didn't need to turn it but I did anyway. After 30 minutes, I walked away and it looked fine. Two hours later, I came back and, on this coat, I got the haze (or blush as it may be). Bear in mind, I'm outside in a closed shed but the temp isn't controlled. On rod number 8, I went back to using the drying box and the problem went away. So, I've concluded that every rod I make, especially during this time of year, will go into the drying box. Lastly, though many here will disagree, I have never, ever, under any circumstance, humidity, temp, or whatever had this happen with LS. It's always been with FC and TM. But, for me, I have a problem getting LS on as thin as I'd like to lay flat and not football.

A drying box is well worth the effort and expense if you're not in an air-controlled environment.

BTW, when you come back to the rod after letting it dry, check the leftover finish in your mixing cup. If you see a cloudy striation in it (may be in the form of an X), I'll bet you've got a blush/ haze on a wrap somewhere. Look at em close. My experience is that they get worse over time.

Greg, really appreciate your feedback. I'm using one of the finishes you mentioned and bought the other to try and get away from the blush issue. The blush I am getting looks like grease, its clear but you can see it. I've actually been able to wipe it away in some instances with my finger after letting dry in the sun for a bit.

I'll definitely take your insight into consideration and make some changes.

In my experience, the cause has always been moisture, usually humidity in a cool environment. If you are mixing the epoxy that long in an high humidity environment, you may be introducing moisture into the epoxy mix. Two or three minutes should be sufficient.

The mfg. of the finish told me to mix longer. Said my standard 5-7 minutes in the mixer was not long enough. So I tried their suggestion.

I've also heated up the mixing ball like Greg talks about.

Also tried not blowing out bubbles as to not introduce more moisture.

Its either the elements surrounding the finish or the finish itself. I'll keep crossing things off the list. ;)

I got this once in the winter when the room I was in was quite cold. I then bought a space heater and keep the room at 75F while rotating on the drier and no more issues.

Over 40 years building rods, and I have never seen or heard of this blushing phenomenon.

Blowing on the epoxy adds CO2, which creates the combination mentioned above. By all means don't do that.

It's a fairly rare thing. Neither humidity alone, nor CO2 alone, will cause it.

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Randolph, - come on by.......

I've struck amine gold!

Need a drying box anyways. Good excuse to get in gear!

This earlier post from Ralph might contain some information that pertains to your situation:


Re: oily feeling on flexcoat lite
Posted by: Ralph O'Quinn (24-113-2-43.wavecable.com)
Date: January 23, 2007 06:51PM

The resin contains epoxides, which combine with the AMINES in the hardener, to produce the cured epoxy resin. Polyamine Blush is certainly not caused by excess amines, as you imply. Polyamine Blush is technically an "Amine Carbamate", and there must be ample amounts of carbon dioxide and water vapor for it to form. This is why more appears on cool damp days than on warm sunny days. The film is water soluble and should be removed by dry wiping before sanding or painting.

Ralph

Think I've got a good handle on things. Will follow up after adjustments are made and tried.

Thanks to all!