is any body building rods that will float with a reel ......... if so what are you using for the handles etc.

The problem with trying to float most fishing outfits by means of handle/grip displacement is that the grips have to be overly large. Extremely large, in fact.

Bass Pro Shops sells a "rod float" and it's pretty much just a section of 2 or 3 inch diameter pool noodle that you tape in place forward of the reel seat.

If you're trying to save a rod from an accidental toss in the drink, you might think about a float deployment system as outlined in the Volume 11 #6.

.............

Richard,
Pretty easy to make a floating rod.

Just hook a float with enough displacement to a cord. Then, tie the cord to the rod and move on.

You could easily put a 6 inch float onto the butt of the rod to float the rod, if you wanted to put up with the bulk when using the rod as well.

Be safe
Roger

Well ....... you guys might want to check out overboard Rods .......... built for kayak fishing so they will float with a reel if they go overboard . I kayak fish and I don't like the add on's that make the rod look bulky etc or the PIA of a rod leash ..........

Just thought you guys might be doing something ......... especially you Tom since you are so big into Yakin

I was thinking about using some 2 lb foam with an epoxy coating and flocking. I know I have 1 rod with a 12" x 1 in or 1 1/4" and a 4 " fore grip that floats with a Shimano Stratic 2500

All my rods will deploy a locator float if tossed overboard. There is nothing to see, nothing on the outside of the rod, nothing obtrusive.

........................

I built a Batson XP904 with carbon fiber grips that floats with the new Abu carbon fiber reel. Total weight of rod with reel is 9 oz.
I have looked at overboard rods. They look bulky and heavy.

Here's one that will float. Watch it to the end.

[www.youtube.com]

The irony of this is that older glass rods, being a lot bigger in diameter can displace more water and so they are better at floating with a reel attached than more modern graphite rods. To get a graphite rod to float with a reel attached you are going to have to make some portion of bigger and making it bigger is probably going to ruin at least some of the reasons why you bought it in the first place.

Well ...... don't know about that .......... I build a rod that I like for the fish that I catch ........ mainly stripers that are usually 5 - 30 lbs. I want a grip that feels good in my hand and a rod gives a good fight down to the butt. I also want an 11'+ rear grip. I don't like the split grip stuff for me. I want something that feels better than the others I have in the boat for me. As I said ..... the 1 I have now floats. Was just wondering if anyone build them that way. I guess I got my answer.

My point was that you cannot specifically build a rod to float without adding something to it, The size of the blank and components will dictate how much water they displace. Any rod that will not float in its normal state would have to be augmented with some sort of additional piece to add to its displacement. You got lucky with the one you have now. It is what it is.

The bottom line is that your rod and reel need to have at least 1cubic centimeter of volume or every gram of mass in order to float in freshwater or just a tad less for saltwater. The options are either increase the volume of your rod by using more grip material (longer and/or larger OD grips), use a lighter reel, or both.

For a full rear grip rod, a conservative back of the envelope calculation to see whether or not your combo will float is to estimate the volume of the rod in front of the handle by treating it like a cone Vtip=pi*r^2*L/3 (L=length from fore grip to tip top) and to estimate the volume of the handle as a cylinder Vhandle=pi*r^2*L (L=length from fore grip to butt). Perform the calculation using measurements in cm and add Vtip and Vhandle together. Put your rod and reel on the scale and find their mass in grams. If the numbers are close, your rod and reel will likely float, if not, don't chuck it overboard. Keep in mind that your reel has volume too, that's why I said the calculation was conservative, the reel should make up for more than the overestimate of treating the handle like a cylinder. For split grips, you'll have to treat each section of the handle separately and add their volumes together.

Joe

Edit: By the way Jim, I haven't tossed my Seeker into the lake yet, but it's nice to know that it's coming back when it happens.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2012 11:15PM by Joe Vanfossen.

Water buoy have a great option for under $20 good for up to 1kg.

Cheers

Mark Newcombe
Old Bar NSW
Australia
markscustomfishing.com
American Tackle Pro-Staff

Tom,

What is the locator float that you are using? I searched around yesterday but found zero. I like the concept.

Thanks Jeff Frei

Something I made from a cork fishing float. Plans for the entire device are in the issue mentioned above.

.............

How often have your rods dropped into the water? In 60+ years of fishing I have only had two rods go in the drink - one pulled in by a lake trout (snatched the rod-landed the trout), and one rod foolishly balanced on the deck of a kayak (got that one back, too). For such a rare problem I would not detract from the appearance, utility, and convenience of a rod by using floats, ropes, or huge grips.

Phil ........ my guess is that you don't kayak fish. I haven't lost any but alot of guys I know while kayaking. It's just something that the Kayak guys would probably find helpful ........ and probably spend the money on. Might want to think about it ........ it coulb be a nice new market. A buddy of mine has told me several times that his $500 custome rod was never recovered. His new one has a big lump of foam in front of the foregrip which looks dumb to me but he's ok with it ............. would be nice to have an expensice rod that looks good ..... feels good and won't get lost if it goes over. Just sayin .........

Was just wonderin if anybody was doing this .......... Kayak Market is the fastest growing fishing market ...........

That was exactly what the rod rescue device was all about. There isn't much freeboard nor other space on a kayak. They're narrow and if you drop something the chance of it landing in the drink is better than half. The idea behind the rescue device was to provide a means for finding and retrieving an overboard rod without having anything on the outside of the rod that might be obtrusive or somehow change or degrade the performance of the rod.

The device works as advertised when tested. I have yet to accidentally toss a rod in, but if (when) I do, my confidence is high that I'll get the rod back.

.............

Rich:

I started kayak fishing out of an eight-foot decked Keowee about 20 years ago. Now I live a few miles from the Mosquito Lagoon and have been fishing there and in the St. Johns River with a fly rod out of a Wilderness Tarpon 16 for the last 11 years. Your guess was off.
I still have no idea how many rods/reels the average angler, kayak or otherwise, has lost in the drink. I have never lost one. As I stated, my personal experience leads me to reject floats or marker bouys attached or tethered to my rods and reels - for reasons of appearance, utility, and convenience.

Phil ........ I stand corrected glad you are a fellow Yaker. I agree with you ....... I don't want any bouy device (I sometimes fish in waters over 80 ft) or tethers ....... they just get me tangled up ...... or floaty lumps on my rod ......... just want it to float, look good, feel good and perform ..........

Oh and sorry about the spelling etc above ........ typing fast and not editing ........

I also turned a thumbs down on a bouy device. The instant you start attaching "stuff" to the rod you degrade at least some performance and/or convenience.

A rod rescue device is the only way to go, in my opinion, because you never know it's there until it's needed.

............