I would like some advice on tip top gluing, for my spinning and lighter rods I use regular tip top adhesive, on my offshore rods I am using two part epoxy, the problem with the epoxy is that once its on and dry its on and sometimes customers change their mind or worse I mess up and I can't get the top off without ruining the blank. I would like to know what others are doing for the heavy tops, I'm not sure the regular adhesive is strong enough.

I typically use hot melt glue, then carry the tiptop trim wrap up and over the tiptop tube, which is then coated with thread wrap epoxy. To remove such a tiptop, you cut the trim wrap, peel the epoxy off, then use light heat to remove the tiptop. I can't say I've ever had one fail.

Do make sure that you get some adhesive up inside of the tiptop tube. If you simply smear it on the rod blank tip, most of it will be pushed out of the joint when the tiptop is slid on.

................

Ed,
Simple solution.
If you have read the forum before, you will have read about the rubber band method to remove tip tops.
Basically a paper clip is run through a rubber band. The other end of the rubber band is looped over a stick to hole when the band is stretched. Then, the paper clip is clipped through the tip top.

The rubber band is stretched out very tight, and the tip is heated. If you use a jet burner, or soldering iron to only heat the tip, you can quickly heat up the epoxy glued tip such that the binder will quickly snap the tip off the blank with no damage to the blank at all.

Holding the band taunt with the stick keeps the hot tip from flying off and hitting your hand.

A few examples of a jet lighter which directs a small high intensity flame at a very small area:

[www.amazon.com]




We use this excellent method all of the time when channging epoxy glued on tips and have never had a blank damaged.

Excellent method.

Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2012 03:56PM by roger wilson.

I use the paper clip and also a Candle to heat the tip

Bill - willierods.com

We usually use 5 minute epoxy on the heaviest rods, otherwise Flex Coat hi-temp tip top glue as Tom says.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

I have fished light to medium class salt water all my life (up to 40# class). I have never had a problem with normal rod tip hot melt glue. I always have a stick and a lighter in my tackle box. I like the ability to make a quick and easy repair on the water.

If I was looking for something between the normal hot melt and two part epoxy I'd look at the higher temp hot melt used in the archery field. It might be just what you are looking for.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I do that same as Mr. Kirkman

Ed,

I do as Ron does. I believe it may have been operator error for myself with the hot melt, however; I found when my rods were laid out on the deck of the boat in the heat of the Central Valley of California, they would occasionally come loose. As I don't wrap my tiptops, I switched to 5 min epoxy. I made the switch 7 years ago and I' ve not had a single top come loose.

Another vote for the 5 min epoxy. It works very well, and can be removed easily with the heat and rubber band method described above. Just one less thing to worry about. The only issue with the rubber band method is to not count on finding the tip-top after wards. There are at least 2 in my garage somewhere...

Drew