A recent post about reel seats cause me to ask the question :

What is the preferred rear grip diameter by both you, as well as any variation in grip diameter by your clients for their rods.

I am not speaking of the reel seat itself. Rather the grip where you place your hand, either just behind or in front of the reel seat - depending on the design of the rod?

Also, if there is a diameter variation for a particular rod - why do you have a different diameter if a persons hands are the same size?

I know that my general desired size for a grip is between 1 and 1 1/8th inches - for most rods.

If I am building a very heavy action rod, I may go as large as 1 1/4 or or 1 5/16th

Incidentally, I do have very long fingers and large palms on my hands.

Thanks for any updates.

Roger

The article on handle ergonomics in the Volume 10 #3 RodMaker had the specs for what most bio-mechanic studies indicate is the preferred diameter for anything intended to be grasped by the human hand in a work capacity.

Beyond that, it's whatever the individual finds more comfortable, although this is not readily arrived at by a quick "feel."

................

Hi Roger.

I have been using the VSS reel seats and you are dictated by the seat to what your dia can be.

I found the size 16 had a nice size foregrip but the rear grip is very skinny especially if you shorten it from the 10 inches to 8.

The size 17 has a nice size rear grip but if found the the fore grip bordering on the outer limits of my personal tastes.

I am just building 2 rods on identical blanks using the Aero grips.The one for me i have placed up winding as i hold the reel
above the stem so i want the comfort part up high.I am dictated here to foregrip dia as it has to fit into the grip.I can vary the length
and the shape.My mates is down winding so the rear grip dia is dictated to as it has to fit into the reel seat as the comfort part is
down low.

So i guess depending on what type reel seats your are going to have to use a certain dia to fit in.

cheers

Ray Balmforth
Figtree
NSW
Australia

Hi Ray,
A Half Wells styled grip will take care of those problems and you can easily do it with your new lathe. Cork doesn't have to be turned parallel, so you can make it whatever size and shape suits. I'm going to do a similar thing with the Aero seats and foam cored grips when the shop gets finised!!. I think I will prefer the Aero seat as uplocking but will wait till I get some before making a final decision.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I try to size the grip according to the hand size of the person I'm building for. Bigger hands, bigger grips. I've been toying with the idea of finding best relationship between hand size (measured from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the little finger when the hand is outstreached) and the diameter of the grip and developing a factor to use to determine grip size. As it is, I take my normal pattern for the grip and add or subtract for percieved hand size.

YOu barely touch the back grip, so I'll start with a 1 1/2" piee of EVA, and tape the front to meet up with the reel seat, and the back to the butt cap. I make a long taper so the grip looks sleek and if comfy to hold teh reel behind the seat since there is no bump from a straight shaped grip.

I have found for SPINNING RODS that the ergo recommendations in Rodmaker Magazine are valid, that the diameter that works best is usually bigger than the normally considered size 16. For freshwater spinning rods I have found 18 the best for me (9 inches from tip of thumb to tip of pinky with hand spread max). Using an 18 pipe style reel seat with a ramp matching the front diameter of the reel seat (up locking!) makes a wonderfully comfortable and serviceable combination for me (and others I've built for).

I have found for CASTING RODS that the ergo recommendations just don't work. I used the diameter recommended on two rods and had to redo them to keep them solidly in my hand when casting. The large diameter just didn't allow me to grip it well enough. In addition, on casting rods with trigger grips the shape is important, and straight isn't it. Look at the shape of most if not all St. Croix freshwater casting rods and you will see something close to my most successful size and shape for casting rods. I make mine a little longer than St Croix. The diameter at the seat matches the size 16 seat I always use. Then it tapers (with a slight swell) significantly toward the rear. This shape (taper to the rear) naturally holds the hand to the grip, effectively "clamping" the rod between the hand and the trigger with no conscious effort. It is secure, comfortable, and looks good. I believe but have no proof that the tapered shape makes it pretty insensitive to hand size. Bottom line, in my opinion, is that the ergo requirements for hammers and spinning rods do not work well for casting rods.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Not for nothing
But
Try going to a - Good - hardware store and holding a - Good - fiberglass nailing hammer See how it feels
I am sure the most popular hammers have a nice shaped grip on them to hold in the hand ---- all day long

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
I just finished a bunch of wood ice rod handles and they do have a shape that is quite similar to a good tool. It is just a very comfortable shape that gives a very good grip in both dry and wet weather.

I did a bunch of test turnings, trying different sizes and shapes. When I found the shape that worked for myself and my client, I used that as a pattern to make the rest of the grips.

Roger