Has anyone had a problem with color preserver not soaking into the tread. I had some u 40 close to a year now could it be going bad?

I just used some U-40 Color Lock 2 today and had no problem with it. It soaked in just fine. I do think I and going to start using nothing but NCP thread as soon as all of my non NCP thread is gone.

Jerry

The liquid in CPs soaks in while the solids which prevent the darkening of the thread stay on the surface. The solvent based version of Rod Dancers may be an exception to that statement. Perhaps someome from Rod Dancer will chime in to explain their Cp.

Mike Blomme

Being old it may have dried up a little Try adding about 10 - drops - of water to 2-3 ccs since it is water based Try that on a piece of scrap

Bill - willierods.com

Our CP is also Water Based, currently we don't offer a solvent based product. But for obvious reasons I like Chromaseal the best of all I tried over the years.
Thanks

Scott Parsons
919-900-8998
[www.roddancer.com]
[www.fishhawkthreads.com]

Chromaseal works fine for me also,no problems

You didn't say that you had a problem, just asked if anyone else did. Did you try the CP on some wraps? I have had this product for over 30 years and never had a problem. Be specific in your question and you will get better answers.

the tread got darker around the gap from hook keeper and also around the guides but ive never had a problem before till now. think it might be time to order some new u 40 and start over on the rod

When I have had trouble with darkening of some of the areas treated with CP, I think it was due to insufficient drying time between coats or not enough coats of Cp. Also, some threads are more demanding than others, especially the lighter colors of thread. There are some CP's that are sold as "clear" products that require very long times between coats. While it is time consuming and inconvenient, you need to test whenever you go outside your norm of experience.

When I have had trouble with darkening of some of the areas treated with CP, I think it was due to insufficient drying time between coats or not enough coats of Cp. Also, some threads are more demanding than others, especially the lighter colors of thread. There are some CP's that are sold as "clear" products that require very long times between coats. While it is time consuming and inconvenient, you need to test whenever you go outside your norm of experience.

Mr Danek is right on with his post. You should also make sure the first coat of CP is a good soaking coat. You can always wick off any excess that might start to run with a dry or well wiped brush. Give at least 24 hours or more for any CP to dry.

I dont use CP on anything anymore after having some bad expeiences with it. Just to clarify drying time was not the issue. I have also done rod repairs where CP was used and have come to some real conclusions. Color preserver blocks the epoxies ability to soak into and flow through the thread and bond with the blank. It also might cause black thread to not be true black after the epoxy has cured. This has happened every time with multiple brands. Here is what happens. Color preserver creates a coating by soaking into the thread and filling any voids in the thread and between the thread and adheres (very weak bond) to the blank. For a lack of better discription its like watered down elmers glue. So there is little structural strength in that bond. Since it prevents the epoxy from soaking through you get no structural benifit from the epoxy bonding the guide foot to the blank. Epoxy is what bonds the guide foot and the nylon filament of the thread provides strength. Its like packing tape with and without the fiberglass mesh. one is strong and the other is weak.

I have put the two methods to test and proven that there is a significant difference in bonding. My fix was to wrap ten wraps of every thread I have on a scrap piece of gloss black blank. Then label each wrap in the space aloted between them with the color number and whether it is NCP or not. Then epoxy over the entire area. When done a perfect color stick and you know how each of you threads look for reference. I know not using color preserver is not what the manufacturers want to here but it does interfere with the bonding of the epoxy just by nature of how it works and that cant be argued.