What i need to know is how to make mandrels. I have a very limited budget, so i thought i would try making my own. I will be using not only cork and EVA, but different types of wood also. So, what kind of steel do i use? What needs to be done to the steel, the directions or steps i need to take to get them ready to use. I would like to thank any and all those who can give help.

George,
You may get negative comments on this, but I simply go to the hardware store and pick up threaded rod in the diameter for the mandrel.

I use my abrasive chop saw to cut the threaded rod to the length that I want for the mandrel.

Then, I use a centering drill to drill a 60 degree centering hole in each end of the mandrel. I slip the mandrel through the head stock and leave about an inch of the threaded rod sticking out through the head stock.
Then, I put the 60 degree centering drill in the tail stock.

Tighten up the tail stock to the end of the threaded rod, advance the tail stock enough so that you have drilled a nice centering hole in the end of the threaded stock.
Remove the threaded rod, reverse it, and drill the centering hole in the other end of the threaded rod.

You now have a perfectly functional mandrel for about 50 cents - depending on what you paid for your threaded rod.

Here are some pictures of center hole drill bits.

[www.google.com]

Note the size of the drill shaft and the shape of the centering drill bit. This shape bit allows for a very sturdy bit that does not wander or wabble and drills a very true center in the end of the threaded rod.

If you don't want to use one of these bit - which are recommended, you can always use a common drill bit of about 3/15th size. Just chuck the bit as deeply as possible to keep the bit from wandering.
Or, if you have a bit that has been broken, this is a perfect opportunity to use it. Just grind a new tip on the broken drill bit and then chuck it into the tail stock only leaving about 1 inch out from the chuck. By having a very short projection, even a common drill bit becomes very stable and is able to drill a nice center depression in the threaded rod material.

--------------------------------------
Certainly if you use drill rod, you will have a stiffer mandrel, but forgetting about the increased price of the drill rod, you may have a difficult time in drilling the centering hole with the common home lathe.

Good luck
Roger


p.s.
Another nice thing about using threaded rod, is that you can simply put a washer and nut at each end to easily keep things from spinning on the mandrel.

If you end up filing the threadeds with glue in th threaded shaft, you can easily clear this out. Simply start a nut of the appropriate size on the threaded rod. Then, chuck the threaded rod into a reversible variable speed drill. Grab the nut with a vice grip. Then, just use the high speed drill to run the nut up and down the threaded rod until the rod is clear of glue. It will only take a few minutes. As you run the nut up and down, if there is a significant amount of glue in the threads, the running of the nut will cause the rod to heat. But the heat actually helps you complete the task. The heat caused by running the nut up and down will effectively soften the epoxy in the threads and make the rest of the job easier.

Roger probably told you all you need to know, but just in case, there was an article in RodMaker a year or two ago that detailed the process for making them.

.............

A word of caution in using "all thread" stock as a lathe mandrel................as the metal is quite soft the mandrel will bend if too much pressure is applied while turning. This should not be a problem with cork or EVA, but for wood, especially hard woods where you need to apply pressure with the chisel, you can easily end up with a :wobbly mandrel and an out of round piece. The longer the mandrel the greater the issue.

I use drill rod from Fastenal. All thread is scary on a lathe.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

I'm definitely not the only builder that has been injured by a an all thread mandrel bending enough from pressure from the turning chisel, coming loose from the tail stock and flailing around (mine caused broken bones in mt hand and a gash on my stomach. All thread rod is soft and prone to bending.

IMO, there are many ways to save money in rod building but NOT around a lathe. When working with a lathe, safety should be top priority
George, Unhide your e-mail or shoot me an email at mbarkley@wowway.com

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2012 08:12PM by Mike Barkley.

I spent just over 10 years working with machines that cut, turned and bent metals, saw a bunch of injuries that all could have been prevented. Mike B is also living proof of someone on here that sustained a serious enough injury from using threaded rod in a Lathe. You might be alright turning cork and EVA on a piece of threaded rod, wood total different animal to turn. Guess you need to ask yourself, is your health worth 50 cents or a maximum of $25 for each mandrel.

Hello George.

You can get a full set: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 for $57.84 + shipping from Mudhole or 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, & 1/2" for $69.95 + shipping from Angler's Workshop.


Happy Turning.

If money is tight get one at a time a little smaller then the rod you need it for so you have room to ream for good fit

Bill - willierods.com

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!! Too all who have given me information, and help. I still think and say rodbuilders are the freindliest, most helpful people that I have ever known.Thank you again, to ALL. George Kuhn