Ive build many custom rods and never had issued applying a thread finish. i have always used Flex Coat and had no issues. I recently switched to prokote and noticed on all my rods the finish wants to wonder to one side , always toward the tip. It biulds up on one side and leaves the other very thin??????? and YES my rod is level. Anyone else experience the same issue??

I have used three finishes, Flex Coat, ProKote, and Threadmaster. The long curing time of ProKote seems to lend itself to more "footballing" or "wandering" as you describe it. IMO, you put too much finish on and the turning forces pushed it to the path of least resistance.
IF you are indeed level, it is the ONLY explanation. IMO, you used too much finish for the type used.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2012 10:28PM by Craig Mullins.

Glenn Evers Wrote:
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> i have always used Flex Coat and had no issues.


One of the truest pieces of wisdom in this world ... "Don't fix what ain't broke".

One thing you can do
Put your finish on while turning - stop the machine wick of any finish that hangs- excess Then start the dryer

It does sound like a un-level rod ???

Bill - willierods.com

It does sound as if you have applied too much finish. Being that Pro-Kote is a thinner thread finish, it works best for me to apply multiple thin applications to the desired build-up. Or, being as Pro-Kote has a longer working time, you can allow the finish to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before you start working wiht it. As it sits, it will becomes a little thicker and some find they had prefer to work with it that way.

Bob McKamey
Mud Hole Custom Tackle
bobm@mudhole.com

Have not done as many rods as most on this forum but if level means with a small level the taper of the blank can make this wrong. Needs to be level center line. This maybe wrong but it is the way I try to do it
Ricky

Prokote has been a challenge for me if immediatley rotated under power. It was wavy. But, I started doing 180 degree rotations manually for the first two hours by starting with 1 minute intervals between rotations which eventually decrease in frequency to once every 4 minutes - at which point I put the rod on motorized rotation. I find that prokote gives me the lowest, most level build that still fully covers with only one application needed. I have to disclose that my thread has 2 coats of (fully cured) lumiseal before epoxy is applied.

I was hesitant with the ProKote, now I ONLY use it. Too much applied at once could result in uneven build up/football, etc. Like others have mention, multiple light coats 2 or 3 at the most is all you need. I apply it underpower about 15-30rpm and it levels itself out perfectly......IMO.

Thanks all so much for all the comments and suggestions. I will use them and re-coat the rod and let you know how it worked out.

Glenn

Even though the centerline of the blank may be perfectly level, the fact that the rod blank itself is tapered means that the surface upon which the finish is applied will never be level. This is just the way it is. This isn't much of an issue with the thicker (higher build) epoxies but can sometimes create issues with the lighter build types.

So, with the thinner finishes, you can run into a problem where a little too much finish coupled with constant rotation can cause the finish to spin towards one end or the other. The best two solutions are to use the slowest RPM motor you can find or like Torin, do the 180 degree manual spin for the first hour or so and then once the finish has started to set, move to the motorized rotation (if you must).

..............

I agee Mr. Kirkman. I also use the method Torin uses. Think I read that in something you wrote, if so thank you
Ricky

I use ProKote on all of the rods I build now, and at first had a problem with the finish running toward the front of the guide and sometimes footballing. I decreased the amount placed on the wrap for the first coat, and essentially do 2 very light coats now and the problem has been eliminated. Hope this helps