Due to the awesome tips I received in my thread about tip tops, I've been convinced to go with the KR concept for my build. I came upon a 6'6" ML-F SC5 blank that I'm going to build up a spinning rod for. I've done my research and I think I understand the KR guide placement, but I was hoping some of you that have built similar-spec rods can give me a guess on what guides I'll end up needing.

Zachary Kowasz posted in my other thread and said he usually uses 20-12-5.5-4-4-4-4, and I've heard similar things when locating other threads. I was thinking I'd go with Zachary's for a baseline. My research tells me that the running guides just need to be any kind of low-resting micro guides, so that seems pretty simple. But when it comes down to the reduction guides, seems like there are a few series of guides out there made for KR concept, and I'm struggling to understand the difference, if it is at all significant. Would something like these be appropriate for the reduction [www.mudhole.com]?

I know there's some guesswork involved in getting the right guides, but I'm hoping to get this completed in 2 weeks or so, so I can use it on a trip, so any tips that might reduce my chances of having to order additional guides are much appreciated!

Oh, and also, it's mainly going to be used with 8lb mono line for jigging walleye, but I could see myself using it for slip bobbering in the right setting as well, and I'm a little worried about the slip bobber knot being too big for a size-4 guide. Anybody have any experience here? This isn't a big deal, if it ends up not working with slip bobbers, that's fine, just a little curious.

Thanks again for all the help youve given so far.

Scott,
If you are going to be running slip bobber knots, I would personally run size 6 runners and tips. But that is up to you.

I suspect that if you just taped on size 6 runners and tips and compared them to size 4 runners and tip that you would see virtually no difference.

Good luck
REW

I have not built with the "KR" concept so I'll outline the 27X method.

First you must decide on the reel. This would be true for either method. For the KR method use their instructions. For the 27X method use half the spool diameter to size your stripping guide and 27 times spool diameter to fix the choker location. Decide on the smallest guide you can use to pass your knots. You have a light rod so go as small as you feel you can.

Once you have located the choker just tape on guides every few inches and glue on a tip. Mount your reel, remove the spool and tape a line to its axle and run the line through the guides. Take your stripper guide and slide it forward from the face of the spool untill it touches the line. Repeat with the next size guide chossing the size that gives reasonable spacing considering location and size of the choker guide. You will want to use high frame spinning guides for this and it is better to have all sizes on hand first. You will probably end up with the stripper guide and two, maybe three sizes, before the choker guide. Now you static test and space out your small guides from the choker to the tip. The stipper and choker are fixed so don't move them. if you feel the need to move a reduction guide you will need a different size so it lays on that line from choker to reel axle.

Nobody can suggest a guide layout for you untill you pick a reel and measure its spool. You also have to pick a brand/model of guide.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I taped on the guides last night and ended up with 20-10-5.5-4.5-4.5-4.5-4.5. I went with 4.5 because I think I can get a slip bobber knot through that, and if I can't, I have other rods for slip bobbering. I could have made the 12 work instead of the 10, I think, but the 10 was closer to midway between the 20 and the 5.5. I tried a bunch of casts and compared it to my factor st croix rod with the same specs, and the casting distance was about the same, but I think the advantage of the micro guides is going to be in the decreased weight, which I can feel noticeably. Maybe the weight of the threads and varnish will even things out there.

I used the method of lining up the reel axle with the edge of the table to determine the choke point. I found this harder than it sounds, since the reel axle is like 1 inch long, and a slight variation means your stripper guide is going to move by 4". What I did was held a flashlight above it and moved the light slowly, so the shadow would move past the edge of the table. This extended the shadow so you could tell if one part of the shadow was moving down the table edge faster than the other. I'm curious to hear what other peoples' methods are here, since this still didn't make me feel great.

Thanks for all the help with this, I'm pretty happy with how this build is going.

I use a 5ft metal straight edge(ruler). I can easily line up the reel axis with the staight edge, no problem, and the intersection is obvious. Bought the straight edge at a Lowes for a few bucks.

Harry T. Bell

After 20 yrs. I am going to build a rod for myself. Started twisting rods in 1983. I would like some input on single foot guide dia. for a 6'.6", 2 piece ultra-light rod,.Also spacing. I have used mathematical for distance, spine, real seat placement. please note, I am old school. Dale Clemens era. I make my own tools for this craft. Any input would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks,
Cling