Hey guys got another question for you experienced people. How do you all keep your epoxy level? I have no issues with bubbles are anything like that I just get high and low spots it looks a little wavy if you look down it.
I have been using flex coat epoxy and a Pac Bay dryer.

If I already have wavy epoxy on the rod can it be corrected with out removing it all?
Once again thank you?

Use a better finish and you won't have leveling problems. Threadmaster's leveling properties are awesome.

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
#_#_#_#_#
www.anglersenvy.com

Epoxy levels automatically. Take a look in your mixing cup. Does that epoxy have hills and lumps? I'll bet it's dead flat level.

If your finish is wavy, then you're applying too much.

[www.rodbuilding.org]


.............

Steve, the secret to it is applying the finish in THIN multiple coats or using a finish that cures slower allowing the finish more time to level.

No need to remove: You can correct wavy finish with another coat, again use a slower curing finish and thin multiple coats.

Another tip is to apply finish to your butt wraps and decals FIRST, guides last. This gives the finish more time to level in longer areas.

DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2012 10:58AM by Duane Richards.

IMO, I get better results when I apply MORE finish, not less. IT take a lot of rods to figure out how to get it right, it took me many years and hundreds of rods. I used to do the multiple thin coats, and the hills and valleys get worse ever subsequent coat.

I use flexcoat and have no problems. After I have applied to all areas I simply go back and heat them up a bit, this thins the finish and it levels out nice. If you still have some waves after it has hardened your second coat usually takes care of it. THIN MULTIPLE COATS is key.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

What does your surface look like before you apply epoxy?

Do you have areas of blank - areas of thread - with different elevations of thread like cross wraps with open areas between?

Is the surface level to start?

Think about it - read again what Billy V wrote - visit a builder whose finish appears to be level - learn/practice

Level is possible and will happen if you work at it.

The #1 cause of unlevel finish is the builder trying to make the finish level. Do less. Put it on and get away from it. Do not brush it around and try to level it. Again, look in your mixing cup and see what happens when you leave it alone.

....................

steve

after 22 builds my finish jobs are finally coming out like "glass tubing", not wavy. lots of very good advise on this forum - took a while to sink in for me! here's my technique; 1 - don't put too much on. do multiple thinner coats. 2 - get the finish coat on the wraps quickly and come back later to square up the ends and fill the tunnels. 3 - after the finish is applied leave it alone, don't mess with it much after it is on. 3 - if you think you need a little heat, forget the torch or alcohol burner. use a light bulb positioned over the wrap about 4" to 6" away for a couple of minutes (rod turning slowly). slow even minimal heat. 4 - check your wraps periodically while curing for bubbles/fisheyes/insects/dust etc. and fix them as needed. it's surprising how long after the finish is applied that you can get away with fixing glitches without leaving any evidence that you have been there!

my biggest mistakes were applying too much finish per coat and fussing with each individual wrap too long before moving to the next wrap.

when finishing an entire rod i mix a separate batch of finish for the guides and the butt wrap.

i have settled on threadmaster (both regular & light) as my "go to" finish. for whatever reason i get my best results with these. rodsmith and ls supreme have worked well for me also.

rog

I use threadmaster and the new Flexcoat UV and the flex takes a little longer to set
Guides a coat let spin All good
On butt wraps I put a heavy coat while turning
Then stop and let excess drip off turn several times to put the drips on top Then slow turn

Then leave it alone If your place is very warm the finish may be setting fast Air connditioning helps Not in the same room -- Dust

Bill - willierods.com

Wow. 2 hours and I have saved months of trial and error time. Thanks for the tips all of you. I think I may be over heating causing excess drip in some locations. I think I need to walk away also as almost all of you recommended.
Once again thank you all.

I have a question for you Billy. You mention better results from "too much" finish. Just what are you doing.....putting it on, letting it sag (maybe rotating it a time or two) and then wicking off the extra?

I'm kinda thinking the guys that have had problems with "too much" finish are the guys that would get humps in the middle of the wraps (football wraps) and try to brush them out to make matters level without ever wicking any away. But I could be way wrong!

I have been very lucky so far and had little problems. First time or two had some fisheys but didn't know about furniture polish. Only problem lately is my daughter has moved in and brought a norwegian forest cat. Just what every rod builder in south florida needs. I have never seen a cat shed so much hair in my life.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I put it on at about 80 rpm When they are all coated I then stop the turner and let drip and wipe off
I like to do that right away so the finish is still wet

Then of coarse ya babysit it a little Some times stuff happens
I do the butt wrap buy itself That ya may have to play with

Bill - willierods.com

On a Dec WRAp I load teh brush and glob it on, spinning the rod on the lathe with teh foot pedal and moving the brush along. I keep doing this until it's coated. I will have a million ridges. I then brush lightly lenghtwise, move the rod into my drying motor, and apply a TON of heat to pot the bubles and get teh epoxy to flow. I do not apply enough heat to make the epoxy drip or sag, because that will cause it to have a bump/valley when it sets up. I show people how I do it at NERBs Gatherings, it's easier to understand when you see exactly what I do instead of what I type. And I let people sight dwown the rod and see there are ver few bumps when it sets up at the end of teh gathering.

I'm on rod 6 right now, so my opinion probably means very little, but my results have improved each time. Still not perfect, but improving.

Things that have helped the improvement:

1. Ambient room temp...the finish likes it between 75 - 78

2. Don't fuss over it...APPLY the finish to the work and let it spread out on it's own. This is hard to understand without doing it, but if you listen to the experienced on here, it's a point that is always made.

3. Find a method that works for you and stick with it. Practice will make it perfect...no substitute for experience.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2012 06:50PM by Craig Mullins.

Hay Craig

You are right on

Bill - willierods.com

I think billy hit my problem. I think I am heating to much and causing the excess to drip. Based off his post that could be the cause of the hills and valleys.
I'll give this next coat a shot with a little less heat.

Thanks again all.

IF you heat too much and it drips, you have to brush it lengthwise to redistrib ute the finish that has migrated to that drip spot. That drip spot will be a hill, and all teh area around it will be a low spot since all teh epoxy moved to teh drip. If you overheat the finish will thin and it will move, even if it doesn't drip it might mover a little bit. Experiance is knowing how much heat is the right amount, how quick to move the heat, etc.

We all have a different method. Here is mine after 2 years and 25 (mostly) fly rods. (So very limited experience compared to many here!)

Warm the bottles of finish in a bowl of warm water-to roughly 90 degrees F. In winter I warm the room to 75 degrees

Mix 3 minutes in shot glass-flat blade spatula to mix

Pour finish into inverted aluminum can and allow bubbles to rise and pop-assist by gently blowing on the surface

Apply to wraps sparingly but completely.

Stop rod and allow sags to form about 1 minute, wick off the sags with the spatula

Rotate 180 degrees, stand 1 minute and wick off sags again

Turn overnight and repeat the application above.

I never apply heat to the wraps

I've had great results with ProKote and ThreadMaster Lite. Overall prefer the TM Lite.

Best advice I ever got was to wick off the excess after application. It makes for a very level and smooth wrap coating.

It never ceases to amaze me how complex people can make something like applying finish to a rod.

Try this:

Apply a nice even thin coat while the rod is turing on the dryer....walk away! .......come back tomorrow and do the same thing again..... maybe one more time if it needs it again the next day..

You'll be pleased!

Now enjoy the low stress do nothing application of rod finishing.

You're welcome.

DR