Building my first Switch Rod. My question is regarding assembly of the rear grip, reel seat, and fore grip to the butt section blank. It is of course a 4 pc. Is the order of assembly the rear grip reamed out first to slide down the blank to the end of the butt section and glued in first? Then 2nd, reel seat shim or bushings put in place where reel seat goes in front of rear grip? Then 3rd glueing in the real seat over said shim or bushings down to rear grip? Then 4th after reaming out fore grip, glueing in place the fore grip down to the reel seat where the pocket of the fore grip and seat meet. It seems to me that it is much like assembly of a spinning rod outfit. Thanks for any suggestions.

Just about right, exception is that you glue the shim into the rel seat before reaming it to fit the blank. If you are using tape instead of a shim your sequence is correct. Be sure you dry fit everything before mixing up the epoxy!!

Thank you Phil, I was just thinking about the shim, because I am so use to making my own tape bushings to fit and slide the reel seat over, I have never used a shim till now, it makes sense to fit it to the id of the reel seat first then glue it in, and then ream out the id of the shim inside the reel seat before glueing onto the blank. I built a nice spey rod some time ago, but forgot the order of assembly on that build and was guessing the process was the same. Many thanks.

I do the lower from the back end of the blank an I have the butt cap milled into the lower handle already. Then I go reelseat from the top, upper grip and check.

Thanks Eric, correct me if I am wrong. What you are saying is you install the rear grip from the bottom of the blank and slide it upwards into place rather than sliding it down from the narrow end of the blank to the end of the butt. I am guessing that installing it in this manner won't have to much effect on reaming out the rear grip in a reverse taper. I am trying to picture the direction of the taper in reaming out the rear grip. Seems like it would not matter to much in this way, as the diameter change is only so much for the length of the grip used.

When doing any butt from the butt of the rod you will have to add shims to take up the thinner portion of the blank

A lot easier from the tip down Better fit -- Unless the guides are on

Bill - willierods.com

Thank you Bill, I thought that that would be necessary to make up the difference.

Hello All

If you have a handle without a through hole (===== (lathe turned with the butt still there) you can dry fit the arbor to the butt then epoxy the arbor to the blank last slide the epoxied butt on from the bottom onto the the arbor.

Hope that is understandable.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

You can also make the hole go all the way and slide from the tip Glue and then put a cap of many different materials in the hole

Bill - willierods.com

Try checking these two links out!

[clients.criticalimpact.com]#

[clients.criticalimpact.com]#

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