I'm new here, and I am building my first homemade fly rod, am using "Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod" by L.A. Garcia as my reference.

In the Chapter on the Handle, he says, regarding gluing the handle:

"Ream out the borehole with a rattail file so that the handle slides freely to a point about 8 inches from where it will rest." He then describes applying glue to the blank and forcing the handle down to the reel seat.

However, all the guidance I have found on the internet suggest reaming until the handle makes contact with the reel seat, with snug fit to the blank:

[flyanglersonline.com]

"Next, carefully file the inside of the handle, using progressively larger rat tail files until the handle slides snugly down to the reel seat."
This guy: [www.youtube.com] seems to have it slide freely to four or so inches from the reel seat.

I'm afraid of splitting the handle by doing what Garcia recommends. How do you do it?

You're almost certain to split it if you don't ream it to within about 1 inch of where it is intended to reside. Cork won't stretch.

...........

It should be fairly snug where it is going to sit. Like Tom said, mine usually slides easily to within about an inch of its final spot. If you slightly over ream it, don't worry; you can take up the space with some thread wraps

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO

Also be careful with a file Make sure the hole is Centered

if you plan to build more rods Get or Build your own reamers with tape and scrap sections of blanks of different sizes makes life easier and reaming

Bill - willierods.com

I think the Mudole video clips are the best for learning these skills. Search "Mudhole rod building" on Youtube. There is a clip specifically for reaming a cork grip and gluing on to the blank.

Remember, you need to have a layer of glue between the blank and the grip.
I ream the grip until it slides easily to its final position. If it easily slides to its final position, the glue will stay in place to secure the grip very well.

I never ream the grip so that it is hard to fit to its final position. I ream the grip so that if you stand the blank on end, it slides into its final position.

Take care
REW

I've always did like George says, where it is snug , but if it is kind of to loose i use that dry wall mesh tape, it works really good to fill in the looseness. tight lines!

You definitely need to ream the cork with a round reamer, I generally ream until it's about 1-1/2" to 2" from it's resting point. You really do not want to force it into place, the cork will split. You want a snug fit for the cork to the blank, you do not want it too tight so squeeze the epoxy out to the point there isn't any/enough to adhere the cork to the blank.

I will suggest

mark where the handle will go Then give the area a 220 git sandpaper sand makes a better bond
Whip off the dust
CAREFULLY ream the handle so it fits - snug - The glue will make it slid easier
Add the glue if you are satisfied
Slide it down and turn it as it goes on Turn more so as to make sure the glue is all the way inside the handle make sure it is aliened as you want
Let dry

Bill - willierods.com