The other day I had to replace a guide on a rod that I had built about two years ago. I noticed that when I cut down into the threads and pealed them back the CP had not penetrated down through to the rod. In fact the bottom of the threads were just as if I hadn't used anything at all. I thought that I was using a good CP. Now I know that I didn't pack the threads so tight that something couldn't soak through. I'm using Madeira thread and I usually do at least 3 coats of CP and let it dry 24 hrs. before putting the finish on. I'm not going to mention the brand that I use just in case it was my fault. If anybody could tell what brand of CP for sure penetrates I would appreciate it.
Thanks

Maderia thread is treated with silicone and that could be part of the reason the CP didn't get ll the way through to the blank. Your CP wasn't at fault, however, it's not absolutely necessary that it penetrate to the blank.

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Hi Terry,
I use Madeira on most of my builds, including guide wraps and don't have any problems. Did a test a while back, to see the colour difference of light coloured thread with and without cp. Without cp the thread became translucent and looked like it wasn't packed properly. Also wrapped of couple of single foot guides without locking wraps, one had cp one didn't. Let the finish dry for a week and then tried to pull the guides out with a pair of pliers. Couldn't get either guide out with a straight pull, had to wiggle them around to get the epoxy to crack. I was surprisede to find the guide with the cp took a lot more wiggling to get it out than the one without. The finish penetration through the thread and around the guide foot was also better. I expected it to be the other way round. Admittedly it was only a one off test and you might get different results with more tests. I put three coats of Threadmaster cp on the test wrap and some thread in the finish mix to prevent fisheyes.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I don't know what type of color preserver you used, but some of the water based products can be thinned with water for that first coat. I don't use it too much, but when I do, I always thin it first. The thinner it is, the easier it will penetrate

When you thin a color preserver, any penetration that occurs is water not the actual solids which coats the thread and preserves the color. Simply apply the color preserver as it is and if necessary apply two or three coats and allow it to dry between coats. If you do, you will not have a problem with the CP. I also advise using a toothpick, a fly tying bodkin or a needle to drip CP down into the tunnels along the side of the feet of the guide.

Mike Blomme

if you thin it only about 20 % it still works but put on at least three coats I put a coat on and you can see when it starts to set up buy the color of the thread then another two

Then I turn buy hand and add a good bit on each side of the guides over the channel and let it soak in

let dry overnight well

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2011 01:33PM by bill boettcher.

After you put on the first coat of CP and let it dry I doubt if much of the second or third coat would penetrate through the first coat to the blank. I usually put a heavier wet coat on the wraps for the first coat and then lighten up on the second. I also use a dental pick or tooth pick to apply a drop of CP to each guide foot tunnel. I have built only about 20 freshwater spinning rods and I always use CP. I have never had any problems with guide movement on the blank and never have had a guide pull out.

Rog

Thanks for your replies. Terry