What is the secret to this stuff? I first tried using a foam brush and ti didnt spread good. The finish was lumby in a way it had a orange peel texture. So I tried a brush and it still is spreading good at all. It's as if it's drying in seconds and shrinking back as it dries. I have it spinning on a motor so it will be even. I'm lost I have sanded it smooth over and over to go back to the same results. Can it be the humidity down here even if I'm inside a/c?

You have to be fast with PG, and it doesn't take to brushing at all.

Use the search feature on this forum to read posts about this very subject.

It cures by exposure to moisture. On anything less than extremely dry conditions, it sets up very, very quickly. It is not intended to be brushed around.

Have you read any of the RodMaker articles on how to use it?

By the way, it is in the process of being discontinued. Products with solvents other than water based are being phases out Nationwide. Too many restrictions on manufacturing, storing, shipping, etc. PG is being replaced by a product that U-40 has been selling in Europe for a couple years now. Expect to see it on the market around the summer months.

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Steven,

I just finished using Permagloss for the first time a couple of weeks ago and all of the pieces came out very nice.

Here's what I did, I got one of those 1" foam brushes you get from HD and the first thing I did was to removed the actual foam from the handle, I then poured some of the PG inside a small shot glass and filled it about half way or just enough liquid to coat the entire blank I was using. Fold the foam piece lenghtwise so it looks like the letter U, dip the center section or bottom of the U inside the glass shot with the PG and quickly swipe it across the blanks. To do this simply hold each side of the foam in between your index fingers and thumbs, let the now soaked piece of foam rest on top of the blank and without using too much pressure pull downward on both sides until it looks like the letter U and it starts hughing the blank. You should run it lengthwise across the entire length of the blank starting at the butt section working your way down to the tip. The other person should help you by turning the rod around as soon as you reach the tip, do this 2-4 times (depending on how thick is the blank) until the entire blank's surface is coated. Let dry for an hour and repeat procedure if necessary.

PS. For the best results, you should have another person holding the blank from the butt section running parallel to the ground. Use gloves and good ventilation.

Regards,

Pedro

Hello,

I have a question about water based varnish:

I see Rod Dancer rod varnish (water based) on a online shop, and I would like to know if these water based varnish, are resistant / hard than Permagloss ?
What's the difference between these two type of products ? Please.

Thank you.

I hate to see Permagloss being phased out. This is just one more step the Government is phasing out Chemicals. I am glad I made the decision to retire from the chemical industry. Warning:: no telling what is next. These water base replacements will not be as "hard" as Permagloss. I saw some of these water base replacements in High Point and was not impressed! Permagloss and Lumiseal are basically xylene and cyanoacrylate (~28%). I am going to Lowes/Home Depot and see what solvents are avaialble. I am going to try turpintine and super glue to see if I can make my own "homebrew". In the mean time I plan to stock up on Permagloss soon.

Ed Smith
Flat Rock, NC

AquaShield is harder than Permagloss.

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So what's the best way to aply?

Steven,
Well, PG is a multi, multi coat finish. You can use it to apply to thread wraps or as a rod coating. From your post I didn't get which one you are trying so I'll tell you what I do on both.
When applying to threads, I've had the best results - outside mind you - by applying 5, 6 or even 7 really thin coats. And, applying it is like epoxy with respect to how much you apply; you've got to find that sweet spot. I use a natural hair 1/4 inch brush, a thimble full of PG (if you run out get some more), and rotate the rod by hand. Load the brush fully but you don't need alot hangin off the tip of the brush. You want to let the brush drag slightly against the threads, unlike epoxy where you flow on the finish. Make a rotation and a quarter, scoot over the width of the brush and repeat. Get it done as quickly as possible - it's gonna dry in about 15 seconds - and move to the next guide. It'll soak in and look list just some glossy thread, no glass-like finish or hi-build or any of that. It'll take many, many coats to achieve any kind of build. It is a different look altogether but it's some good stuff. The instructions say you can apply subsequent coats after an hour. However, DON'T DO IT AFTER THE FIRST COAT. After applying the first coat, wait 24 hours. Then, you can apply every hour if you want. This is what Ralph O'Quinn, the developer, told me personally. I don't know why this isn't in the instructions. That orange peel that you get is caused by applying too much and/or reapplying too soon. So, thin coats, use your brush sparingly or it'll cause it to bubble, and 4 or 5 coats will outlast any epoxy finish on the market. It may look antiquated compared to hi-buld epoxy, but believe me, it is more durable.

When applying as a rod coating, try this. Get you some nitrile gloves and some cheese cloth. Cut/fold the cheese cloth into about a 2" pad. Chuck the rod in your lathe and remove your roller guides so the rod is in the lathe without any support - if possible. Holding the pad in your gloved hand, pour some PG onto the pad, make a good puddle. Starting at the butt end of the blank, hold the wetted pad against the bottom of the rod and quickly swipe all the way to the tip. Go back to the butt, rotate the rod 180 and repeat, again quickly. Take the glove off and chunk it and the pad. Wait 24 and do it on an hourly basis if you want. If a swipe looks bad , when it dries you can scuff it out with some fine scotchbrite and repeat till you get it like you want it.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2011 08:11AM by Tom Kirkman.

E-mail Scott at fish sticks. he is coming out with a new water based finish.

Bill - willierods.com

I recently used the Lumiseal on a rod. I applied it to the whole blank as well as the wraps and was quite pleased with the results. When applying to the blank I used hardware cheese cloth with good results, but it also sets up rather quickly. I have also used it on an old cork handle after sanding and applying cork seal. The handle came out really nice by using a 1" foam brush. The more coats used, the glossier it becomes.

As far as getting the "orange peel look" I also got this the first time I used it on a blank. My problem was that the blank was not completely clean and I tried to apply too much at one time. After cleaning the blank with alcohol and applying less on each coat, it came out smooth and clear. I ended up using 6 thin coats on the wraps and I think 2 or 3 thin coats on the blank.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I have had great results applying perma gloss on a 18 rpm motor with a smal 1/4"l foam brush. I actually impress my self each time. do it about 12" at a time, working quickly. I'm doing it on a whole blank over new paint though... not guide wraps.
Good luck

Garrett