Hi guys
Wondering if this is good for gluing eva Going to have an order for mudhole and seen this.
Going to play with some eva handles. Pliobond [www.mudhole.com]- Did not see anything else on there site.

Bill - willierods.com

the site is not working for me but i always use U-40 ten minute rod bond. Just gotta be quick when using it or else lol...

Bill:
Pilobond or DAP Weldwood Contact cement work well, you can pick-up DAP at any of the Home Improvement Centers

Rich Kline CR

Got a Home Depot near me I should go and look around
Thanks

Bill - willierods.com

I like any slow curing epoxy for 2 reasons - 1, it lubricates the blank so you can slide the EVA in place; and 2, slow cure gives me time to clean it back off the blank with alcohol. I'm seldom in that big a hurry. I have used the 5min stuff, but like the above post says, you have to be somewhat quick.

I am talking of gluing eva to eva. Adding some bling to handles.
I keep looking at Billies stuff and am tired of filling in holes. I know foam grips no holes. Want to play with eva.

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2011 08:39AM by bill boettcher.

Sorry, I didn't understand that part.

EVA to EVA use the red can contact cement, make sure you get the liquid not gel it is easier to work with. I have tried both. This is the same Glue Billy Vivona uses on his inlays.

I guess your talking at Home Depot ? Got a name on that red can. I'll be standing there picking up any red cans I find

Bill - willierods.com

Weldwood contact cement in a Red can. That's the one I use also.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

The Weldwood contact cement can generally be found in small brown glass bottles. It remains the best product for gluing EVA to EVA because it doesn't leave a hard nor visible seam between the pieces.

..............

I like the glass bottles. Should keep it workable longer
Thanks

Bill - willierods.com

Tom is perfectly correct in suggesting the small brown bottle of Weldwood Contact Cement.. I have been using it for more then 30 years and have made hundreds of inlay grips using it and also thousands of cut trim ring designs in eva grips using contact cement. It not only leaves no hard edges when used but it is also impervious to salt water damage.

A rod that I made for a fisherman that had I glued 420 cut pieces of colored trim rings to form a design using contact was dropped overboard one freezing day in January and laid on the bottom of the ocean for 6 months . It was recoverd after that time and the grip is still in perfect condition and every glue joint is still intact. I have used it to demonstrate the benefits of the product as well as other products I used in making of that rod.

eva - to -eva, DAP cement
cork to eva (like an endcap) 5-min epoxy. I've had pretty much every rubberized cork ring butt cap i tried gluing with cement to eva fall off. Quick epoxy job to fix and its never coming off now.

Regards,
-Justin

Now ya make me want to play with Rod Bond. A very thing coat And maybe Got a few small pieces got to try it Just for the You know Of it.

Bill - willierods.com

Bill read bernies post and follow it too a tee. I have tried everything and then read his article. I was never all that impressed with my glue lines till I read and followed his method. It works great and is bomb proof. You can.t find the seams if your fit is good. Plus it has some stretch capability when it comes time to install. Rod bond does not do that.

Weldwood Contact Cement - - same as Bernie's post. I've found nothing that works better

why not try the green can of Weldwood? MAybe Titebond 3, that might work out great. MAybe a needle and thread to stitch the pieces together?

That's OK Billy. I'll get the Weldwood

O yea How are you clamping angle pieces together. Rings or ends can be done like cork. But angle strips probably have a special way to hold tight ??

Bill - willierods.com

I just found out that the DAP was the Weldwood adhesive

Bill - willierods.com