Well, I finished my first spiral micro project (Castaway 783) about 1800 yesterday evening and I come in here at 0230 to only find the Pro Kote is just as wet on the plate as when I left it. I mixed a total of 4cc. I didn't use the Threadmaster because I wanted a lighter build. Last time I used the PK, it seemed to take a long time to cure, but I don't remember it taking this long to get tacky. But it was wet for a long time, probably 6 hrs, came back 30 minutes later and it had good consistency. I am afraid to even test the guides the way it is laid out on the plate. Oh well, I reckon I will find out tomorrow after noon if it is a hit or miss.

I did go back and do some searching for guide coating and would like tho think y'all for all the suggestions built up through the years. I used a bigger brush this time and single stroke 3 guides at a time to add the epoxy, I let the glob roll and then went back to the first to spread. I found I spent only 15-20 seconds a guide and everything went real smooth. Once again, thank all of you for your contributions and help to the rookies like me.

How long did you mix the product? May I suggest that you not whip the A/B like you were making scrambled eggs, but fold the 2 together and scrape the edges of the cup for a minimum of 3 minutes. then spread the contents in to a Aluminum container I use old pot pie dishes or a plastic lid covered with foil.tilt the container so the mix will flow out thinly. Good luck

Good Wraps Bob

I mixed as you described Bob. I learned a lot of bubbles come from mixing too briskly so I continuously roll one way far a little while and then shift back. I always mix in like a ketchup cup you get from a restaurant line with aluminum foil , and then I lay some foil out on a paper plate and go from there. I use a straw to blow any big surface bubbles out, and then I might shoot it with one shot of bubble buster if it has some deeper bubble to come up. I has worked flawlessly for me, until now. I am just hoping that maybe it is the cold weather, or maybe my room temp is a little low at 68°. Hopefully it will harden up. If not, I will try a different light build. It did the same thing to me last time.

My first rod was taking for ever to set up. i turned up the heat in the room and it set right up. Just a thought

Kevin Gross
Many men will spend their whole life wondering if they made a difference. Marines dont have that problem - Ronald Regan

Apparently unlike other folks....... I mix the two parts vigorously for about 2 minutes. Just like scrambled eggs or even whipped cream- foamy, lots of bubbles when I'm mixing & scraping the mix off the sides of the cup then let it stand until most of the big bubbles have disappeared. maybe a minute). I apply AT SPEED (over 60 RPM, probably closer to 100) and THINLY - if need be I can go back with a second coat (two thin are better than one thick). I think the real keys to success are: thin finish (both as sold and as applied) and a warm environment to keep the epoxy fluid and surface tension of the mix to a minimum. Slower cure means more working time and more time for those nasty little bubbles to escape

If you're working at room temperature (about 70F) and the finish is still wet after a good many hours, then you either mis-measured, did not thoroughly mix or mixed two of the same part.

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Garey, I'm Probably newer at this than you, but I live in the humidity of Mobile, AL and I find I have much more success with a dehumidifier on in "the shop." Its a larger unit and a very small area I know its working when I can feel my eyeballs being sucked dry. Just kidding but the shop is actually a shed that has been repurposed. It is insulated and has an AC and heat. Dimensions are 12' X 16' and on humid days I have dumped the 1 gallon container twice. AHH the joys of the south! Before I used the dehumidifier I "helped" some Epoxy out with a 60 watt incandescent light bulb via a flexible shaft lamp. These may be horrible ideas I don't know what long term issues this may cause but I don't really see how it could do any harm.

Humidity has no effect on the setting or curing time of an epoxy. Epoxies cure by chemical reaction, not evaporation. Temperature will slow or hasten that time, but that's all.

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So water has no affect on epoxy?

Actually, not on the setting or curing, no. Many have tried setting up epoxy under, or in water, which it will do. And moisture will only have an effect on the appearance of epoxy provided it condensates on the surface of the epoxy. humidity itself has no effect on epoxy whatsoever.

The only correlation between epoxy and humidity has to do with the fact that warm air is capable of holding more moisture than cooler air. So during times of high humidity, epoxy may set and cure faster. But not because of the humidity - it's because of the warmer air involved.

Ralph O'Quinn will be presenting a seminar "All About Epoxies" at the Expo in February. Few folks know more about epoxy finishes and adhesives than he does. If you're in town, make sure to set aside an hour for this one. It will open your eyes to a great many myths concerning epoxies.

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Well my fingernails are gone. Still just as wet. mmm mmm mmm, I didn't videotape my mixing, but my bottles are at equal levels. Who knows? Something happened somewhere. Now do I have to remove my wraps after i clean it off?

If the expo was a week later, I would be there. I get in from Singapore the day before it starts. Maybe next year.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2011 10:30AM by Garey Elkins.

Garey -
No, you should be able to apply a second (new) coat on top of the cleaned off wraps.

All the products are good and each has their own little differences in working with them. I suggest you settle on one product and work with it until you get all the little problems worked out and then stick with that product. This is the way you will get reproduceability in your wor work.

Reproduceability!? I like that word Sam. lol

Garey,
If your wraps are still completely wet, I imagine that you mixed all of one part - either all A or all B.

I suggest that you use Acetone or Xylene to brush the finish off of the wraps. Either one of these will clean the single part epoxy off of the wraps just fine. These solvents will also dry very quickly.

I don't think that Alchol will do a very good job in cleaning the finish off of the wraps. Unless you want to, you probably won't have to rewrap, unless there was some curing going on.

When you clean the finish off of the wraps, just use a stiff brush - like a toothbrush, brush a bit, dip fresh solvent and brush some more. After you thing every thing is clean. Use a fresh dish with fresh solvent and go over everything one more time.

Now , before you refinish, if you don't have to rewrap, be sure to double check your guide alignment. With the wrap cleaning, it is quite possible that you will have knocked one or moe of the guides out of alignment. I think that all of us have done this once or twice before so we all know what you are going through.

Roger

Personally, I would clean the blank/guides and start from scratch. IMO, nothing good comes from the introduction of solvents OR the uncured finish that will be trapped under threads, under guides, etc. Things happen very occasionally, most can be traced to inconsistent or failed procedures the rest to unknown incompatibilities that could have been prevented via testing.

I'd be sure to let the wraps dry thouroughly before doing the new coat of epoxy.
Jeff

About the only thing I have going for me at this stage is that 7 of the guides had been coated 2 days ago. I didn't do the last 3 because the epoxy started getting thick. I know I had to come back and do the base layer on the tiger wrap and hook keeper. So basically, I have to clean the second coat off of the 7 guides, clean the other 3 out, hook keeper wrap and 2" decorative wrap in front of the real seat check, and the base of the tiger between the split grip. I might just go ahead and strip the thread, and clean it, it won't take but a little while and could possibly save me more of a headache down the road. Thanks for the replies though fellas, it is much appreciated.

Garey,
One of the advantages of using Xylene as a solvent for any of the epoxy 2-part finishes, is that is the use that Xylene was designed for. If some Xylene happens to mix with the finish, it iwill really not effect the epoxy finish at all. It will just mix with the finish and the finish will cure normally. Another advantage of using this as a finish, is that it evaporates quite quickly so normally, there is little reason to be concerned when using this as a solvent.

Roger

I just want to apologize if I seemed to smear the Pro Kote (Pun intended) name. I enjoy buying from the Mud Hole group, and I hope I didn't offend Todd and the other guys that frequent here from there. I know it is probably just some mistake I am overlooking. I have about half the guides cleaned, the tiger stripped, and the hook keeper removed. I think that was the best bet with all the epoxy I got on the soak through. I have been using acetone because it is all I could get my hands on. The acetone shouldn't effect my previous coats should it? Once again, apologies if I offended anyone, I might have came off wrong in blaming the product.