Hi, this is probably an old subject, but I am new, so I hope this question is okay. I have reamed 22 cork rings to make a fore grip for a switch rod. I want to glue them together. I plan on using U-40 Rod Bond. I understand that I can compress them together using an all thread "mandrel". How do I keep the holes concentric? and how do I keep the epoxy from cementing the cork to my all thread? Also, is there a problem getting some kind of bond breaking coating off the inside of the grip before I epoxy it to the blank? Thanks all.... This website is a blessing!

Hello All

Craig, coat your mandrel with mandrel wax (Mudhole 3.5 oz for $9.25).
Hopefuly your blank is larger than your mandrel and once you get your handle off the mandrel you will ream it out to fit your blank. (I use a Batson Dream Reamer).

Good Luck.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Not sure of the size of threaded rod you are using, but you would want to use one that is close to the size blank. You ream the rings to fit the threaded rod, then do your glue up. You can also use a candle to coat your mandrel first. Then when you remove the handle from the mandrel, you finish ream it to fit the blank.

Craig,
11" seems a little too long for a switch - unless your lower grip is going to be 3". My switch foregrips are a little under 9" and my lower grip is about 5" - an overall length of 18". You don't want to make the grip(s) so long that you adversely affect the rod's performance. Unless your rod is much longer than 11'. If you did not test-cast the rod before deciding on a grip length - I would recommend that you do that.

Good questions by the way. I bypass all of the potential probs by glueing directly on the blank. If your lathe set-up will accomodate that I would recommended it. Ptherwise, I guess your questions were answered above.
Regards,
Herb

Gluing rings is generally done on a smooth mandrel, not a threaded one. Not saying it can't be done, but there is a much greater chance that your epoxy will find its way into the threads and create a permanent assembly.

................

If you have to use all thread rod, wrap a couple layers of teflon tape around the rod, don`t be stingy with it. If it is a tight fit you will be able to twist it off.
Like Tom said it is better to use smooth mandrels. You can go to the big box hardware stores and get smooth steel rods for just a few bucks and they come in all sizes. you will still need to coat it with the candle wax or teflon tape.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I use threaded rods to glue my rings up all the time. It is easy . Usually a 3/8" .
I put the rings on the rod making sure it is long enought to fit them. Then put the large washer and wing nut on both ends making sure I have room to slide the rings apart to glue.
I slide one ring down put three dabs of rod bond on the first ring. Then slid the secound ring onto it and turn about ten times, You do not need much glue the rod bond is great stuff.
After all have glue on I tighten the wing nuts and washers onto the rings to compress them.
Let sit overnight and if they stick in the morning, I loosen one nut and tighten the other and that breaks them loose.
Take it off - ream to fit the blank.

If they stick - you have used to much rod bond.

Bill - willierods.com

use the allthread rod,a fender washer and nut at each end. you can use the blocks of gulf canning wax found at grocery stores to wax you allthread rod. it will only be a couple of dollars and will last you forever. i have been working on a box of gulfwax for about 8 years and not even through half of it. you can also use titebond as a glue if you want, but the rod bond works just fine

We use a 1/4" threaded rod, and like wood glue to hold the rings together.
I keep the length of it just a tad longer than the desired grip, and have several different sizes.
If you fit them to the blank individually first, not quite all the way "home", they will usually be a lot bigger ID than 1/4".
Just put a small amount of whatever glue you choose on each ring (just one side of each, not too much), rotate a turn or 2 as it comes up against the next one, and then just make all the rings go to one side of the threaded rod together.
That will have them offset on the threaded rod, but close to even on the OD, which is going to be shaped anyway.
The extrta space between the rod and ID of the cork helps keep them from sticking.
Using the fender washer idea, we also "pad" the end of the two outside rings with a scrap piece of eva ring.
Coating the threads with wax is a good idea, and if you do get the ring assemble to "stick" to the threaded rod, just "unscrew" the assembly from the rod.
A wing nut at each end helps adjust.
Make them snug, but no need to "horse" down on them.
The wood glue cleans up easily, does not leave a harsh glue line, and then when the assembly goes to the rod blank, we then use epoxy glue to make it secure to the blank.
There is usually a small amount of finish reaming to be done when the final fit to blank is made.
If there is a mistake made any time during the handle shaping or gluing, I prefer it to be off the blank.
Also easier to handle a short piece of rod or mandrel in the lathe than a longer blank.
We use a piece of scrap blank as a mandrel to finish shaping the OD of the grip after the ID is final fitted, that keeps it concentric on the outside.
Hope this helps,
Blessed New Year to all,

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Like others, I glue my cork rings up with titebond on a 5/16" threaded rod with big washers and wing nuts to pressure up to set. I coat the threads with candle wax and have never had a problem with sticking.

Craig,
If you have the facility, it is nice to make the handles right on the rod.
i.e you need a rod lathe that is long enough to support the entire length of rod.

Then, simply ream each cork ring so that it is a nice fit on the rod blank at the location, where the ring will be placed.
When all of the rings have been reamed, when the reel seat arbors have been reamed, and all of the pieces of back rod handle, reel seat, reel seat arbors, and fore grip, you can glue everything together in one single glue up, using slow drying epoxy.

Use a set of handle clamps which compress the entire assembly right on the rod blank.

When the glue is dry, place the rod with its glued up handle in the rod lathe. Use rod steady rests at locations so that the rod blank does not start whipping due to harmonic vibration.
When, you have the steady rests in the right location, and you have the rod up to speed, simply shape the back and front handle starting with a Stanly surform planer to cut the glue line. then, start with 80 grit sand paper and work on down to 400 grit paper.

When the handle has been shaped, the butt cap made, you can take the rod off of the rod lathe, glue on the butt cap, and attach and wrap the guides and tip.

If you have questions about the use and or construciton of a long rod lathe, just drop me an e-mail:

hflier@comcast.net


The one big caution with this method. Although this is the cleanest way to make a handle, i.e. perfect fit, etc. you only have one chance to shape the handle. If you make a mistake and go too far with the sanding, etc. you have to cut everthing off of the rod blank and start over.

Take care
Roger

It's neat how we can all use almost identical tooling with varying techniques and end up with the same results in the finished product.
I use a smooth drill rod ( stiffer and straighter than regular cold drawn round rod) with about 2 inches of thread on one end. The other end has a Set Collar and Fender Washer to adjust for different length grips. The smooth end goes in the Jacobs chuck and the threaded end is center drilled for the Live Center in the Tail Stock.
The grip OD is finished before I take it off the mandrel. I use Tite-Bond III and canning wax also.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

one note, if you use allthread rod then you can always get the handle off. all you have to do is turn one of the nuts and it will push off your handle. allthread is also readily available and inexpensive, so you can have several different sizes that allow you to bore each ring prior to gluing and that makes the finished boring/reaming much easier. i have a wire wheel on one of my grinders and i use it to clean the threads from gunk after each use. this has allowed me to use the same allthread rods for countless handles

I wax solid steel rods and clamp in a typical grip clamp. I recently made a cork grip for a spey rod. I used 1/2" steel rod mandrel from the hardware store for the rear grip and I didn't even have to ream it. The front grip I used 3/8" steel rod and clamped it. I like what Eric did here, I came across it in the member galleries [www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks all, some great recommendations, and real confidence building. As this is my first ever cork glue-up, I needed this!
As the cork rings are already reamed to rod blank diameter, I don't have much room left to ream more. So I, being kind of a belt AND suspenders guy, will apply wax to the all thread, and then wrap it with teflon. I may put a little masking tape between the wax and teflon to help keep the rings and mandrel concentric. Thanks all for some great suggestions!
Craig

I guess what you are saying is that the hole in the cork is much larger than the threaded rod. You had better control the cork so that it does not slide to one side or the other when under pressure from clamping. If you are not careful the cork will "skate" in all directions and you may be forced to end-up with a grip smaller in diameter than you intended - especially at the area of the reel seat hood. Next time keep the bore hole only slightly larger than the mandrel

I get the feeling that I am going to learn a lot on this first one.
Craig

Craig,
Does your lathe set-up allow you to turn the rod blank if you glue the cork directly onto the blank??
Herb

My lathe is primitive. I have a 5/16 rod (mandrel) chucked up in a 3/8th drill. The drill motor is set in a stand that is quite stable, and the free end of the rod sits in a notch about 20" away. I'll skewer the cork (it's actually reamed already to fit the rod blank, and the hole is between 3/8 and 1/2 inch in diameter.) and shim it as appropriate to keep it centered, and tight enough so it won't slip while I turn it. So the short answer is no, my current lathe wont accept the rod blank.

Craig,
For $80 it can be. All you need are two Flex Coat cork lathe steading stands ($40 ea.). And, just make sure that your drill has enough amps to power-through the turning process - mine is in my car trunk and I will look at it later to let you know what mine is. I can tell you how to mount the blank so you will not damage it and turn the whole grip on the blank. It is a little complicated to put into words - but doable. Let me know if you want to proceed and I will take the time to do so. If you are sold on the idea of turning the cork on a mandrel, if I were you, I might think about reaming new cork to fit the mandrel and keep your current cork for a future project where you turn the cork directly on the blank. I have turned dozens of fly rods - SH and switchs - on the blank with only one mishap that required stripping and redoing. You just have to take it easy. That is the only way that you will be absolutely sure to get 100% wetting of the cork/blank with epoxy - unless you have a reamer that is the exact taper of the blank.
Herb