I am building a xp843-tc and using the 27x system. My reel is 45.52mm .The chocker guide is at 1230mm from face of reel.I tried asize 20 for my butt guide.It is 26 inches from face of reel then a 10 and 6 , size 5s to for the running guides. Should I change the butt guide to a 25.? not as many running guides?They are spaced 4".Guides areBVS3TLG.
Thanks for the help.

Brett,

Have you casted it?? If so are you happy with the way that it performs?? If you are not happy try a 25 and if you have smaller runners you could give them a shot too. What line are you using? What lures are you tossing with it? Both of these will greatly affect how you "could" set the guides up, note I said could...NOT HAVE TO

Tom

On the Library page check out the two articles New Guide Concept - Spinning Rods And Static Guide Placement They should answer most questions

Bill - willierods.com

I would want the butt guide closer. What size and type line are you running?

If smaller and limper line, you might opt for a very high frame size 20. For a little heavier line you might do better with the 25.

............

I just built on that blank for myself. I went 25,16,8,5's to the tip. I am using a stradic3000fi with 14lb fireline on it. I did some testing with a 20 on it and saw no improvement over casting distance. THe main reason I decided to go ahead with the 25 over the 20 is my spare spool is loaded with 8lb mono and when I changed to the mono there was a vast improvement by starting with the 25. On a side note, that is an awesome blank, I plan on selling off all my ip844's and replacing them with the XP's

Brett,
If you can give me the distance from the reel to the tip and your anticipated line size I can provide you some options.

Eugene Moore

I think I would put the first guide closer than 26, more like 21-24. What I do is to plan the rod by laying out the handle, reel seat, find the center line of the spool, then draw a straight line (adding machine paper works well, as mentioned in a previous RodMaker Magazine article), between the center line and the point on the choker guide rim at 27x. Then, get the height dimensions of all the possible guides you might need and find the best guide for that first one, which is 21-24 away from the reel spool. For a spool of the diameter you have I would choose a 25-now find a 25 that puts its rim at the line I've drawn within the target 21-24"-It probably will be a high guide. With Alps guides I usually use a VS3 for that first guide and VS for the others out to the choker. Split the distance between the first guide and choker into logical segments, then find the guides that put the rim on the line. I think the height and location are more important than the diameter of the ring-it will usually be a natural progression down from the first guide based on the height you need. Smaller diameters are shorter. You can move the guides an inch or so, or all of them a bit, to get the rims on the line and a good size progression and a good spacing.

From the choker out they will all be the same size and all you have to do is figure how many you need and space them logically-adjust for the stress test as necessary.

When you tape the first three or whatever guides before the choker on to try for a stress test, you may have to move guides a little, but they will be close to meeting all the needs of the rod.

Since I am a small builder, I don't have a big stock of guides on hand, usually order specifically for each rod, so laying out the rod like this allows me to order guides more effectively without having a bunch of guides left over.

As the article in RodMaker pointed out, the rolls of adding machine paper may be folded and saved so the next rod on this blank (with the same reel) will be easy-you'll have the "recipe" on file.