I know wraps need to be sealed completely to ensure that they are protected. However, this picture: [www.rodbuilding.org] looks better than this: [www.rodbuilding.org] to me...is the first completely sealed? It almost seems like it could allow moisture in...while the second picture seems to be completely sealed...but on bare graphite, I think the first method would look better...how does one seal the wrap without that slope of epoxy/finish to the blank?

ps. this is not to say the wrap in the second picture isn't good...I just like the way the first picture looks...

For myself, I bring the epoxy to the blank to make sure things are sealed, just the way I was taught many years ago. Not saying the other way does not seal it completely, but I have seen rods I have repaired where there has been water get into the wraps I believe because the wrap was not completely sealed.

I myself finish the guides like the first pic. I add enough finish to cover up the threads - making sure there are no bubbles under the wraps - and sloping it onto the blank. Once the finish levels out, I go back and gently and carefully clean up the excess epoxy to give it that clean cut look. Haven't had any issues yet.

A hand rest and a little higher speed on the wrapper will help to make the edges straighter. practice on some scrap to get the hang of it.

Bill - willierods.com

In my opinion, the threads are what do the work in keeping the guides where we want them and the epoxy is designed to protect the threads. Therefore, the epoxy should COVER the threads to properly protect them. Getting the taper from the thread to the blank is the art of the technique.

Finishing threadwork is somewhat like dealing with women, sometimes "pretty" is not alwayes the best, and of course ugly is never good!!

Cover the threads to properly protect your artwork.

Charlie

I believe that the appearance on the first image was created by wrapping masking tape just past the end of the thread wrap before applying the finish. The masking tape was not removed until after the finish had dried. This tactic will give you the look you prefer and still ensure that the threads are protected.

Thanks Ron.

Cheng, what do you use to remove the epoxy without spreading it around on the blank or disturbing the epoxy on the wrap?

Bill, I only have a 6rpm dryer...do you use a special tool or just a brush/mixing stick?

Thanks,
Ken

Any thing that your hand can rest on and make your hand steady. A piece of scrap blank cut to size ??

Try practicing on some scrap to get the hang of it.

Bill - willierods.com

With a steady hand and the rod spinning on the dryer, I slowly clean up the excess with the corner of a clean cloth and DNA.

Holding a piece of thread at a angle while the rods turns is a great way to tidy up the edges of a wrap

Doug, I tried that before, and it works well on glossy blanks...but the residue shows up on bare graphite blanks...

Wet part of the thread with alcohol and go from wet thread to dry thread in a slow motion---it will clean any residue off the blank.