I'm curious what type cork rings are used by rod mfgrs like St Croix and Shimano that have such a clean cream colored, almost flawless look. Are they using cork that I have to pay $2.00 or more per ring to get that look, or are they using run of the mill cork with a really good filler?

Generally I don't mind the look of a few pits that most cork has, I even think in some cases it adds character; but now along with my customs I'm building rods for a tackle shop under his label, and they go in a rack right next to Shimano rods, and my cork is not nearly as nice IMO.

Is there a cork that I can buy that will keep my costs in line and still compete with these off the shelf grips?

I do prefer to glue up and turn my own grips over buying premade.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Walt Davenport
"Roadhouse Rods"

They're filled. You can easily get the same, or better cork, from most any of the sponsors to the left. Do a search here to find good methods and materials for filling cork.

If you want a top quality ring that you don't have to fill, you can get those too, but will likely have to pay $2 per ring and upwards.

Also keep in mind that other than the RodMaker Cork Grade Scale (CG-1, 2 and 3) there is no other standardized cork grade scale. "Flor" can be anything from flawless to full of holes and pits, and still be correctly graded.

...........

Walt -

I have done the math forward, backward, sideways and standing on my head. Plain and simple, you will NEVER turn a grip and be competitive with production rods - it can't be done. IMO, you should either charge the $50 premium and turn them OR buy factory grips - St Croix kits are available at a good price AND American Tackle (through various sponsors) has a nice selection of sizes to choose from.

Jim -

What 'd like to see is how the "big boys" fill their cork/handles. I've cut and shaped a few factory grips and their fillers go completely into the CENTER of the rings, as if, the filler is a liquid and the grips are soaked in it, hung to dry and then worked smooth.

DR

I have just given up and buy the cheapest cork I can get then fill it. I bought cork filler from Mudhole and it came is as Elmer’s wood filler Golden Oak. After I get the handle rough sanded I fill in the big pits and coat the entire handle with a thin coat of filler, and then after it is cured I do my finish sanding. I wouldn’t call it an ideal solution but it works for me.

Filler cannot go into the center of the ring as cork is "closed cell" and does not absorb liquids. Otherwise it would not float for long and it has been used for net floats last years floating in the ocean. If they are using filler that stays adhered to the cork well, is surely has better adhesion properties that wood filler.

Phil,
It would be an interesting experiment to do a handle fill with filler and then vacuum it, to see if you could get better penetration of the filler - or if there were any other advantage.

Many manufacturing techniques use the theory of using vacuum to enhance their particular process.

Take care
Roger

Those factory grips look great under the shrink wrap but it doesn't take that long for them to look pretty crummy. I gave up on regular cork years ago and when I use cork, it's always burl cork. Buy 100 pieces and you get 100uniform pieces withn NO flaws in them. If the negligible weight increase is a concern, over bore them and use flexcoat arbors inside of them. Works great

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,
I like the idea of overboring the burled cork and using the foam arbors under the cork.
Great idea, and I would guess that the weight would be fairly close to that of good cork alone.
Take care
Roger

Roger,

If you bore them big enough, they weigh a lot less than regular cork. Look at the wood grips that Stan Grace uses arbors on [www.rodbuilding.org] Foam cores are even better and cheaper! Check out the cores from Mike at Riley Rods [www.rileyrods.com] . I plan on grapping some at the show

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,
I like that idea, also. My initial thought was that the burl is just too heavy (over 2.5 times heavier than cork). But you've given me something to consider.
George

Another slant that I have taken on some builds ... use the rough stuff and dress it up. With a bit of stain and some polyurethane for protection, the imperfections can look pretty spectacular. I learned this trick at ICRBE - one of many educational experiences gained there.

There is more than one way to view the world ... LOL.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2010 11:56AM by Jim Gamble.

"Filler cannot go into the center of the ring as cork is "closed cell" and does not absorb liquids"

Phil, I was speaking of HOLES/PITS in the cork that go completely through the ring to the center, I didn't mention any thing being "absorbed".

Some factory grips indeed DO have cork filer that goes well into the core of the rings IF the pits and holes go that far. I'd almost bet that the factory filler used in factory grips is either dipped, pressure sprayed or pressed into the grip.

I'm surprised no one knows how this is done.

DR

I wonder if the foam core dampen vibration compared to cork?

And how does a 5.5# foam core compare to cork in density?

Mo

The foam core material is more rigid than cork. It's not spongy - it's very hard.

........

Thanks Tom.

Mo