So a friend of mine asked me to build him a musky rod to give to his new son-in-law for Christmas. Everything appeared to be going fine and on schedule. Last night I was about to put on the final coat of epoxy when I noticed a nightmare staring at me. Little did I know but the first set of supports on my PacBay wrapper had been set too tight and had worn a groove (about 2mm wide) through the finish on the SC II blank I was using. I'm usually pretty creative when it comes to fixing/covering up my screw-ups, but this one is a little more challenging, especially on Dec. 22. The groove is about 8-1/2" from the winding check and about 7" before the first guide. At this point in the game, I'm thinking of just putting another set of wraps over the area (I'm using Gudebrod garnet with silver trim, no CP), but that is pretty noticeable (at least to me). Would epoxying the entire section between the winding check and the first guide cover up the groove? Any other suggestions?

Thanks for any "last-minute Christmas ideas."

Dave Fowler

I'd put a wrap over it and finish and call it a day, your running out of time!

If you're sure that no structural damage has been done, just make a small trim wrap over that area.

............

You could put a Musky decal over the area, if you can find one in time. By your e-mail address, I'm guessing you live in the Madison area. Try calling Rollie and Helen's Musky Shop, 715-356-6011. They're advertising that they sell Musky and Pike decals.

maybe use the same color as the blank without cp and maybe it will - disappear.

Bill - willierods.com

Take a measurment from the tip or the end of the handle...see where it falls you may be able to use it as a measurement marker. Then do just a simple trim wrap. If it falls with in an inch or two then do a couple. Say like 40" 38"

[www.dnr.state.wi.us]

I've attached the Wisconsin Musky regulations! Hope it helps

following Bill's idea, white gossamer silk thread, without CP, would be practically invisible, once finish is applied.

If it's just the clear-coat that has been rubbed off you could spray it with a can of spray urethane or similar product.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Do 3 small trim wraps evenly spaced with only 3-4 wraps of thread each (rub mark under the middle wrap), keep the finish ONLY on the thread to show off yourt great steady hands and brag on it!

DR

How about putting a hook keeper on that spot, if you don't have one on already.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Thanks for all your ideas. I had thought about using a trim wrap as a measurement marker, but it's only at the 31" mark, which isn't too helpful for muskies -- other than to know you are way too small for a keeper. Probably too late in the game to order a decal -- but it was a good idea. Don't have any silk thread, but another good suggestion. I think I'll try Duane's idea. I might actually pull this one off.

Thanks again.

Dave

Dave,
Out of curiosity, what material are the wrapper wheels made of to cause the scuffing?

I have one set of rod rests that I use on my high speed rod / handling turning lathe that are made of solid steel skate board bearings.
This lathe has a single speed 1/2 hp 3600 rpm motor that I use to spin full length rods when I am using cork rings glued up on the blank to turn the handle.
The rod rests are very solid and very stable. However, because the rod rest bearings are solid steel skate board bearings, I find it necessary to protect the blank with tape as I turn the handle.
If I don't protect the blank with tape, I will wear a spot at the rod support in the area of the bearings. I typically use about 2 wraps of masking tape in the area of each rod rest to support the blank.

For power wrapping, I use a rod rest that still uses skate board bearings, except that these have rubber O rings on the bearings to protect the blanks. I have also loosened the top bearing support so that I simply have slightly more pressure that gravity to hold the top bearing support down on the rod.

--
Before I made some of these changes, I did have a couple of blanks that I scuffed and slightly grooved the blank that did require some work to cover. So, I understand your concern and I think your fix will work just fine for your project.

Happy holidays.
Roger

Dave,

I have silk thread in case you decide you want to go that route.
Give me a call or drop me an e-mail.

Larry Powers

Roger, from what I can tell, the wheels on the PacBay wrapper supports look to be essentially o-rings that fit around the outside of nylon wheels. You can get an idea of what I'm talking about by looking at the PacBay website. In the past, I've never had this problem, but I normally don't build on blanks this heavy. I should have adjusted the supports to prevent the lower ones from putting too much upward pressure on the blank while it was turning. But, I like your idea of using masking take to prevent any marks and will need to remember that next time.

Larry, thanks for the offer of the silk thread. I've already done the 3-wrap fix suggested by Duane, and it actually came out looking pretty good. To the untrained eye, it looks somewhat intentional.

Dave

Just out of curiosity, did you try a light coat of car wax.....this will often clean up minor scuffs that didnt scratch anything. I wax all my rods prior to leaving my possesion, and on heavier rods, where the rollers were there are almost always light scuff marks where the dryer rollers were. Once waxed and buffed, they are no longer there. Sometimes simpler is better.

I LIKE that masking tape idea however. Sometimes things so easy can simply just go unnoticed.

I do the tape thing with the blue painters tape, it has less sticky and I figure on bad painted rods it will help not taking the paint off.

Bill - willierods.com

Sean, I didn't try the car polish because this was more than a scuff in the finish. The finish was actually worn away around the circumference of the blank. And the groove was wide enough so that I didn't think polish would have done the trick. I definitely need to grab some tape next time. Covering up the area with three narrow wraps ended up looking pretty good. Another disaster averted.

Many thanks to all who responded with ideas. Once again, this board has served me well.

Have a happy holidays.

Dave Fowler

I have used a Renzetti rod lathe for twenty years or so and I have found that as the rubber o rings age they get harder and will mark or groove a finish, therefore I always adhere to taping the blank where supported. I was taught this way by a long time builder, Harry Irrgang. He always used tape on every rod. With painted rods I try to position my supports in the center of guide marks to cover up with thread when wrapped.I have lost touch with Harry. Anyone know how to contact him in the Delaware area? . Thanks