I've not done this for 20+ years so am very rusty. Can I use Rod Bond for gluing my rod tips? I already have this for gluing my grips and reel seats. Also, what about Superglue?

This is a great site. How did we all survive prior to the internet?

I use Gudebrod ferrule cement. You can also use Rod Bond - but if you ever have to replace a tip with Rod Bond you will likely have to cut the tip top off.

Simon,
I don't think that the super glue is a good idea. IN many cases, there is a need to take up a bit of space in the tip / blank interface.
Also, from time to time, for a myriad of reasons it is necessary to remove the tip to be replaced.
With either epoxy, or heat activated adhesive, it is fairly simply to apply some heat to the tip and remove it without damaging the blank. I am not sure that that would be the case with any of the superglues.

Take care
Roger


p.s.
It seems that a semi general rule of thumb is to use heat activated tip adhesive for lighter power fishing rods. Then, it seems that the use of a 2 part epoxy, like rod bond for gluing on tips of heavier power rods, due to the higher strength bond of the epoxy.

I use 5 min epoxy and have no trouble removing tips. Have to evenly heat but not too much. Just have to be careful.

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I'm sure that you will get a lot of opinions. I use hot melt glue on all my rods from ice fishing to downrigger trolling rods with absolutely no problems. I do a lot of repairs and by far the most commen is tip replacement (stepped on, ring broken from terminal tackle hitting it). I want to be able to get the tip off if need be. Have never had anyone tell me that one of my tips accidently came off.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2009 10:50PM by Mike Barkley.

Guys,
To expand on Simon's thread, can a tip be removed and used again. I've terrible trouble at aligning that thing up with the reel seat especially on long rods. My eyes are going and sometimes when I line up all my guides, I notice my already glued on tip is just a tad out of alignment. I can remove it with light heat from an alcohol torch. So, can I just glue it back on or does the heating do something squirrely with the ceramic's adherance in the tip?
Greg Marshall

I'm with Mike. I use hot melt glue for tip tops 100% of the time with 100% positive results.

Steve Buchanan
Steve's Custom Rods

Greg,
Under normal conditions, one can reheat, twist, and let cool - a tip to realign.

If in doubt, reheat, remove the guide, recoat the blank tip top, add additional glue to the interior of the tip and reglue.

Good luck
Roger

I don't think I would want to try that with Rod Bond on a tip. To me, it's not worth the risk.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I always use Hot Melt tip top adhesive. I had one come off. It was left in a car on a hot afternoon, I thought it was because of the heat build up in the car but later thought it could be my fault with not enough adhesive or what ever. It was only the third rod I had built.

I now do a tip wrap up to the tube when I do my guides and when I epoxy the guides I run a little onto the tip top tube (hard to say) just to reinforce the hot melt.. No more problems.


Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Bill Eshelman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I now do a tip wrap up to the tube when I do my
> guides and when I epoxy the guides I run a little
> onto the tip top tube (hard to say) just to
> reinforce the hot melt.. No more problems.
>
>
> Bill


I do the exact same thing with great results.

If I have a drill bit to fit the tube I scratch the inside of it, then fine sand the tip of the blank and use 5 mim.

To align the tops with the seat I put several pieces of masking tape along the blank and mark from the seat to the top. I always put my tops on first.

Simon,
I use a method similar to Bill.
About 90% of the time, I use hot melt tip glue.

When I first started doing rods, I would heat the tip, get a bit of tip cement on the inside of the tip and slip it on and call it good.
I did have a couple of tips come loose, due to inadequate or poor bond.

So now, I apply tips as follows:
1. I have a couple of popcicle sticks on hand to wipe up the excess glue.
2. I heat up the glue stick and apply a liberal coat of glue to the rod tip.
3. I then heat both the tip and the glue that is on the tip and while spinning the rod, slip the tip in place. The rotation of the rod completely coats the inside of the tip with glue as well as to even out any glue on the tip.
4. While still rotating the tip with the warm glue, I then use the clean stick to wipe off any excess glue that might be on the blank or tip. The excess heated glue nicely sticks to the bare wood and makes it easy to clean up without burning your finger.
5. After everything has cooled, I take a blade and flick the cooled glue off the stick to use again.

Using this method to insure that there is adequate glue on the tip top as well as inside the tip - has never failed.

Good luck
Roger

I use hot melt on all my tiptops. But then I make a thread wrap just beyond the tiptop tube and wrap up and onto the tiptop tube. Carry your finish epoxy onto the thread and the tiptop will be locked in placed - a hot day or storage in a hot area won't move it. To remove, you slice the thread wrap, peel off the thread and epoxy and then gently heat the tiptop.

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How many have tried Bohning's Ferr-L-Tite?

FWIW I always used hot melt, live in a warm climate, and never had any problems. I break enough tips that I want to be able to make an easy repair while fishing.