Guys I guess Im just stupid but Im not getting this cork reaming deal.Ive built 5 or 6 rods all with eva grips and want to try cork.All the reamers I see for sale are sm med or large.None which happen to be the same taper as my blank..880 tapers to .800 in a foot.In order to make a reamer that will work to make the handle "fit my blank" it will have to be made on a mandrel the exact taper of my blank.If its not the same taper per in. why would I need a tapered reamer?Why not just make some straight ones on dowel rods if Im going to freehand it anyway?Do they not have to "fit"? How loose is too loose?I know Im missing something thats why Im asking you all. Ive got another taper that matches "exactly" but I sure do hate to take it off this Rainshadow blank. THANKS

You're going to have to create the proper taper by hand, so a straight reamer is nearly as good. But some taper helps get the reamer started.

The fact is, a reamer that is the same taper and size as your blank is going to be too large to even get into the cork to begin with. Get something close, start small and move up to the next size as the bore enlarges. Pay attention to the approximate taper you need and work towards that.

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Assuming you have the Batson Dream Reamer kit or at least the XL size .575 x .650 you would simply chuck it into your cordless drill and ream both ends carefully until its perfect. Under power reaming out to .880 would not be that big of deal. If your doing that size of cork by hand old school reamers then all I can say is painful.

Karry Batson
Batson Enterprises Inc.
Ph: (877) 875-2381
Fax: (360) 683-3579
karry@batsonenterprises.com
www.batsonenterprises.com

I can assure you the Batson Dream Reamers work well and shorten the process when used in a hand drill. Pay the money, it's worth it.

Sam

X2 what Sam said

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

Bruce, not to take the wind from anyone's sails....

For me, the easiest is to use the flex coat bits, the ones with the 1/4" pilot on the front. Build the grip on a mandrel. To get the taper you need, just run a larger bit on one end 1/2 way into the cork, stop, the from the other end run a smaller bit down to the center to meet the other reamed area-you choose the sizes needed. You end up with a grip that's pretty dang close to totally reamed with NO hand work. Then if needed I'll take a rat tail file and ream by hand, but that's rarely need and when it is, it's short work. There's no grit to clean out, no paper to wear out and replace, everything last a lifetime. The bits are worth every penny and so is the rat tail file. I have single cork rings reamed with each flex coat bit size and marked each ring according to the size. To find out the perfect bit to choose, just drop one of the cork rings down the blank to where you want the grip to be, ream grip as needed per your test rings.

DR

Duane,
Another thing that I do is to simply use a size or two different countersink bits. A countersink bit will make a perfectly centered hole in the end of the grip and depending on the size of the countersink and the amount that you push it into the grip, you can dial in the exact size of the outside edge of the hole.

Then, I have picked up a set of inexpensive 24 inch drill bits from harbor freight.

By having a clean bottom, and a clean top hole, you can then use various sized drill bits to approximate the necessary taper of the blank.

It only takes a few minutes to accomplish the job that would otherwise take some time.

Good luck
Roger

The best thing I did is make my own reamers. They beat every reamer I've bought, including the Dream Reamers.

I bought two identical rod blanks that were similar to the rods I build most. I cut them into 18" (I think) lengths. Starting at a blank diameter of about 1/8". I cut my first one 18" back from that diameter. Then moving on to the second rod blank, I cut the top 10" or so off the blank and then cut my 18" length out of it. My goal here is to make sure that all of my diameters over lap. When I get done reaming with my first reamer, the next size up easily fits into the hole made by the first reamer.

I took some old premade grips and cut them into 3" lengths and glued them to my reamer blanks.

I used narrow masking tape and masked off the very tip of the reamer and then wound a spiral around the reamer. A piece of wide masking tape right ahead of the grip.

2-ton epoxy and a bag of grit completed the job.

I've got a number of reamers, besides these and they all have their place and time. If I want to power ream, the Dream Reamers are great. If I need something really fine the two cheap reamers I bought when I started work well. But the bulk of my reaming is done with the ones I made.

I'll also add...I predrill my rings to nearly the blank diameter and then glue up on a mandrel. Reaming for me is a minimal job.



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Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Thanks everyone for the replies.Looks like I need some reamers and drill bits.Thats one thing I really like about this theres no set procedure for a lot of things but a lot of ways to end up with same "hopefully" results.