I've been reading on various fly fishing forums that folks are using Gorilla Glue to glue up cork rings. Any experience? Comments?

It can be done, but it's not really the best product for the job. It's messy, stains clothing and fingers. Regular 2-part epoxy or Titebond carpenter's glue are better suited for this application.

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Just make sure you clamp everything very well; it expands as it dries and can have a tendency to open up joints as it expands.

If the stuff dries on your fingers, you will have to wear it off.

I have tried it, Charlie, and have not liked the result. I think it is hard to work with.
I use Threadmaster Ultimate Gel 15-minute expoxy. I put it on and then scrape off as much as I can with my spatula. This leaves virtually no visible glue line. I would think that U-40 RodBond would be just as good.

Are you trying to avoid using the epoxy for a reason (allergies, etc.)?


Walt (Buzz)

A real pain and a mess. Tightbond works great

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

If you do decide to use it, remember that Gorilla Glue needs moisture to cure. You'll have to dampen the face of each cork ring before applying the adhesive.

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In addition, I don't think the dust of dried Gorilla Glue is very safe. Stick with Titebond 2 ... less mess, water cleanup and low toxicity.

can gorilla glue be used on reel seat to blank application?

I tried it on my very first rod, used it to bond the reel seat to the blank. It loosened up after a couple of months of fishing the rod. I would not recommend using it at all on rod building. I now use 2 part epoxy and the gel 2 part type glues (like rod bond). I fish the crap out of my rods and I have not had a failure on any glued up parts using those products. Like Tom said, the Gorilla Glue needs moisture to cure and it expands, kinda like the foam fill in a can that you would use to insulate cracks in a house. One of my friends had a real bad experience using it to glue up a reel seat, the stuff expanded into the hidden hood section of the seat. What a mess.

IMHO I see no good reason to use Gorilla glue.

As others have pointed out, it is messy, expands enlarging joints and has no apparent advantages over either Titebond ll or lll or epoxy adhesive.

It is good to keep in mind that cork is NOT porous, it is a closed cell wood bark. As such it will not absorb liquids (water, stain or glues) adhesion is only on the surface and many adhesives will work. However, as the grip/ handle is subject to moisture and stresses the adhesive used should be water proof and strong. The Titebond wood glues (especially Titebond lll0 are suitable for cork or even cork and wood combinations. If however you are including materials such as acrylics, foams or others with hard surfaces, I have found 2 part epoxy'

In all cases, the thinner the adhesive film, the stronger the bond!s best.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2009 09:02PM by Phil Erickson.

Since Gorilla Glue sets with moisture, the product does not last well in the container after it has been opened.

It will creep out of joints and make a mess. No good for rod building.

I will assume we are talking about the brown liquid type not the wood glue that is the same color as titebond.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

color is not the issue, they both have similar properties.

I have used it on other projects. Gorilla glue has its uses, and rod building is not one of them.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Boy, it looks like I'm using the wrong product. I use Tite Bond Poly almost exclusively, the bond is flexible and very, very tough. If you dry fit cork to make sure that they lay flat you won't have a glue joint with poly or any adhesive, if your cork doesn't fit well you will have a joint with any glue. Poly has a learning curve, and very porous cork will give you fits, but a better bond makes it worth it in my book. The other benefit with the poly's is that you can use it to bond slick accent pieces like credit cards or other accent rings that white glues won't adhere to. This photo shows a cork grip done with poly glues, regular tite bond wouldn't have held up with the accent rings. [www.rodbuilding.org]

For those who MUST use an adhesive free of amines the Gorilla Glue is a poor choice. Ralph O'Quinn advised me to use the Sumo Product pictured in the Photo Link due to its low expansive properties and exceptional strength. It is a viable choice for seat and grip bonding to blanks and works quite well.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Link to details of product:

[www.loctiteproducts.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2009 10:04AM by Bill Stevens.

Like I thought. I would never have decided to use it because I've had such great results with other products but wanted to see what experience others have had. Thanks.

What Mark and Bill have said ...

... We have been using poly adhesives for over 5 years now as have 3 other regional shops ... This for untold thousands of rods for both grip and reel seat assembly.

I was skeptacle at first as well <> But the stuff is awesome.

Compared to two part epoxies: We have found the assembly process to be faster, far less messy, less expensive, Amine free ( this is a very important issue for us).

We use the same cramping process as would be required of two part epoxies (we mill our grips on the blank)

As with any adhesive: We follow a very defined procedure of application <> There is a learning curve.

Consultation directly with the manufacturer is advised for correct /specific bonding applications, and we have found Titbond to be extremely helpful in this regards.

My advise ... If you are a hobby builder (and have not yet developed issues with epoxies) then stick with conventional adhesives ...

... But if your serious about production rod building you may want to consider other options.

Bob Meiser