I have never used Perma Gloss, so this question might sound a bit naive.

I have just built a rod on a matte-finish blank. I used Flex Coat Hi-Build on the wraps. If I want to but a gloss on the blank itself (between the wraps), can I apply Perma Gloss just to the blank and not to the Flex Coat finished wraps? If so, what happens (if anything) if some of the Perma Gloss gets on the cured Flex Coat?

Success is the result of making good choices. Making good choices is the result of experience. Experience is often the result of making bad choices.

Gary, you can do it that way with a scuffed blank, but it's not the best way. Take the PG up to the edge of the FC and stop there. PG is hot and it could lift the FC. I'd butt it up to the edges of the FC but no more.

Best way is to do the PG on the entire blank first, let cure and then do your wraps and FC.

DR

It's unlikely the PermaGloss will lift something like Epoxy. The ideal process would have been to coat the blank with PG first, then wrap and apply epoxy to the wraps. But if you have to go the other way, just get close to the edge. If the PG touches the epoxy, you shouldn't have any problems.

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IMO you will not be able to get a satisfactory finish on an 'already-built" blank. If the only thing you do not like about the blank is that it is a matt finish you will like it less after you attenpt to do what you state. PG is not to be trifled with.
I have said this before on this site - if you are going to do a project this big you will need a vapor rated respirator (3M makes one) - and it would be better to also do it out of doors. Otherwise you risk lung damage - to say nothing of effect on brain cells.
Herb

I agree with Herb. PG is a HOT!!! Urethane. Auto Painters use similar products and always use a respirator. The vapors are worse on the body than a mist.

Good Wraps Bob

Gary:

When I am done with my rods, I give them several coats of wax. I use Johnson paste wax, but pure carnuba would work. Wipe the wax on, and let it "haze" then buff it off. I think this will give you what you are looking for.

I actually use the U-40 Cork Sealer, buff down this finish, and then give the grip a couple of coats of wax.

Mike, are you using the Cork Sealer on the blank or on the cork?

Gary,
Please, please, please, try the PG on a test blank first. I agree that it shouldn't be trifled with but in a quite different sense. It sets up so fast, seconds as a matter of fact, that I've found it difficult to apply in a short distance. My best finishes have come from swiping the entire blank with it and then putting on the wraps. Still, I've had situations where it will pull off with very low adhesive tape. It is good stuff though, just takes a lot of practice. If you can do it inside the home in a temp controlled space, say on your wife's vanity top, you'll have better success. Outside it's subject to the effects of the humidity and it'll set really fast.

Gary do you clean your blank first, then put on PG. Blanks have a oil residue from handling. I use surgical gloves or a foam paint pad. When using gloves I pour a small puddle in my palm. Starting from the tip I squeeze tight and make one pass from top to bottom. When using a foam paint pad I saturate the the pad,(I still use gloves) I start at the tip squeeze the pad around the blank tight and make one pass top to bottom. No streaks or bubbles

Good Wraps Bob