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Electric label help
Posted by: Greg Marshall (96.19.80.---)
Date: September 06, 2009 08:34PM

Okay, so I'm following the instructions in RodMaker to the tee with one exception. The only Krylon Clear Acryl that Wally world had was flat and satin. The matte box was empty, guess everybody's making electric labels. Anyway I bought one can of each and made multiple labels to experiment on. After 3 coats of Krylon, either flat or satin, my labels have a white haze on em. Did I use too much or will it go away with finish? I only made about 3 sweeps for each coat and waited 10 minutes between coats just to be sure. Any suggestions?

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Re: Electric label help
Posted by: Lyle Stokes (---.rt-bras.pell.centurytel.net)
Date: September 06, 2009 08:57PM

I have had this happen before and it usually clears up after it drys. One way to prevent this is to wait longer between coats and only light coats.

www.blackhorsecustomrods.com

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Re: Electric label help
Posted by: Jim Gamble (97.106.17.---)
Date: September 06, 2009 09:46PM

A haze is VERY indicative of not allowing a previous layer of finish to release enough of the solvent in the formula. As stated, it SHOULD clear up with time. An hour between coats is a much better idea IMO.

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Re: Electric label help
Posted by: Jimi Ellis (---.hsd1.ga.comcast.net)
Date: September 07, 2009 06:51AM

Amen to Lyle and Jim's answers

Jimi Ellis
Southern Grafix
www.SouthernGrafix.com

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Re: Electric label help
Posted by: Bill Stevens (---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: September 07, 2009 09:21AM

It is not necessary to apply the Krylon fixative if you develop handling and drying procudures that minimize surface touching of the media. The images will be clear under epoxy with no hazing. These decals can be placed without touching the surface with your fingers. An eight hour dry period is advisable. Try out these procedures: 1. Leave one end of the decal with excess backing so that you do not damage the end during the backing peel back - trim the last edge after the separation with a pair of sharp scissors - the decal will stick to the scissors - grasp it by the edges with your fingers to pull loose and place. 2. When pressing the decal into place use a soft clean paper towell and apply only vertical pressure - no burnishing stroke. 3. If you are edging the decal to make the seam invisible on a black blank use an acrylic paint stick and not a black Sharpie - solvent in Sharpie will affect adhesive on edge and cause rolling.

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