I've turned a number of reel seats and toyed with making some wood grips, but have not used stabalized wood. The wood I used was quite dry (at least I thought it was) but I see on some of the grips I turned, the wood appears to be shrinking at a slightly different rate. (I can feel very slight ridges between the different woods) I used a combination of two or three different woods on the grips. I built and finished the grips about 6 months ago using an exterior varathane.

Should I be using only stabalized wood?

Thanks for any advice...

Harold

Not necessarily. Non-stabilized wood is okay for most rod building applications, but you might want to let it dry/season a bit longer before turning it.

Keep in mind that wood "moves" and this is just the nature of the beast.

Stabilized and/or resin impregnated wood is great but not absolutely necessary. It's also a bit heavier than the same wood, non-stabilized or resin impregnated.

...............

Harold: I agree with Tom. The key to success with ANY wood used for reel seat or wood grip turning is moisture content. You can "kiln dry" small pieces of wood at home with a very low heat source (light bulb) in a small enclosed fire proof space in a matter of a week to ten days in most cases. We kiln dry our wood down to 6% to 8% moisture content before we do anything with it including having it stabilized. Stabilizing is great and can add color and enhance the grain in many species of wood, but it DOES add weight and cost to your finished project. If you'd like more info on kiln drying, send me an email at kfandb@yahoo.com. I'd be glad to help in any way we can.

Regards, Steve Kincaid
Reelseatblanks.com

Steve Kincaid

Like Steve said (and he would know) I really like stabilized for it appearance but use way more non stabilized and like them both. Key is dryness.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Hi Sir, for me the only wood I use is stabilzed woods for my fly rod reel seats the wood works well and will polish up like a pc of glass the last thing I went is to sell a high dollar cane rod and have my customar have trouble with the wood swelling when it gers wet or even when it drys cracking, what Mr. Kincaid said to do will also work well but stabilized wood is the best God Bless Jeff Rhonda and Kaya net pup

Thanks gentlemen:

I will take the time to dry the wood even more. I live in British Columbia, and we do get our share of humidity, so I would think that even though it looks dry, there must be some variance in moisture content that I may not have factored in.

Steven, the idea of a small home made kiln interests me. I'll send you and email.

Jeffrey, I tried to send you and email to ask about your reel seats, but your email is blocked. If you see this, would you send me an email.

Regards
Harold

I use unstabilized wood that I cut green and dry myself. I cut the wood into 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" blanks while still green and seal the end grain with a wax sealer made for that purpose . Other substances may be substituted as a sealer such as paint or varnish. Anything that will seal the ends and slow the rapid escape of moisture seems to work.
Upon sealing I allow the blanks to dry at room temperature or in the summer I may leave them in an unheated shop. Too determine when they are dry I weigh the blanks on a postal scale reading in grams when they are first prepared and then I repeat the weighing on a weekly basis until they no longer appear to lose weight. When they become fully cured or stable they will vary within a range of a couple of grams depending on the local humidity.
I live in a fairly dry climate and can usually cure the blanks in a couple of months without using auxillary heat. You can usually pick up a small scale at a reasonable price. This system works fine for me.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2009 09:31AM by Stan Grace.

I use nothing but stabilized wood.
I've had bad personal experiences in the past with swollen wood and reels that wouldn't fit because of it. Stabilized wood may weigh a bit more, but I believe the insurance is worth it. I commonly open the inner diameter to accommodate a size 16 foam arbor. This leaves me with a wall thickness of nearly .200", and it reduces some of the weight.

I just delivered a St. Croix 4F1006.4 a couple of weeks ago and the new owner told me it went overboard when the tiller handle hit it while it was laying against the side of the boat. He called to ask me what he should do to "care for the wood". I laughed and told him to wipe it dry and not to worry about it.

I think it's worth it, and I won't use anything but... if at all possible.
Tight wraps!
Brian

Hi Sir, yes will send you a e-mail and our e-mail adds is kayaonekaya@yahoo.com God Bless Jeff Rhonda and Kaya net pup

Stabilized wood is nice, but not nessessary. One thing you may want to look at is the glue that you use to adhear the parts together. Water based glues will add moisture into the wood that was dry to begin with. The segmented pieces glued with tite-bond, that I have drilled a couple of months after they were assembled have yet to cure or dry in the middle of the piece. It seems as if it takes a good six months for the pieces to dry to the point that the different woods have the same moisture content and won't cause the problem that your talking about. I have found the poly glues (gorilla) will take less time to dry, but it still takes time for them to get to a uniform moisture content. You may want to do as Stan suggested and weigh it after you glue until it no longer looses weight.

I never even thought about the glue adding moisture Mark. I used Titebond III on these glue ups. I've got a small digital scale, and I will order up a moisture meter for the next ones.

Thank-you

Harold