I watched the Flex Coat "How We Do It" video last night and thought of something. They mentioned how one of the guys there runs it through a hot melt glue gun and to make real thin slivers. Is tip-top adhesive the same thing as hot melt glue or is it actually a different creature all together?

Ash

Hi Ash,

Of all the tip top cement that I've ever used, it always came in a stick form but it was always heated with a flame in order to melt the end of the stick and apply directly to the rod tip then.

I've never seen rod tip cement in a stick that will fit through a hot melt glue gun.

Always get the rod building rod tip cement. It is a different glue than the hobby sticks or the hardware variety types of hot melt glue sticks.

A lot of the sponsors to the left should have it.

Good custom rod building and good fishing to you .

Your common hot melt glue from the hobby shop melts at a far lower temp than does rod tip cement.
Although both are heat melted and applied, and I suppose you could use a hot melt glue gun to melt the tip cement, it would be a bit of a waste of time to wait for the gun to warm up just to adhere a rod tip.
If you want to experiment for yourself, take a piece of that hotmelt glue and set it on your dashboard in the hot sun one day, make sure its on something it can melt to.

I've also used epoxy to adhere the tip on some rods, even wrapped up the tube a bit and coated the tip with rod finish. I had a few rods with the tips moved where people left them in a hot car in the dead of summer. Those who carry their one piece rods in the car across the seats with the tip in the front or rear window have had a few issues with tip cement.

I've always used either Gudebrod or Flexcoat cement, so if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears. I think the Flexcoat cement was what was melting in the sun. The Gudebrod cement I have is the older, darker type which I no longer think is available, it takes a bit more heat to melt. The Flexcoat (T2) cement looks more like hot glue sticks. The newer Gudebrod cement looks about like the Flexcoat product now.
The old stuff melts thinner than does the new stuff but is dark brown in color.

Ash,

The way I do it is take the tip top glue stick in my glue gun. When it begins to melt I run six or eight strips of glue about the size of a tip top opening. I do strips about 8 inches long.

When i glue a tip top on I just nip off a 1/2 inch section and stick it in the tube. Hold the tube over a flame for a few seconds and slip it on and adjust.

I have had a couple come loose so I think I will do this so it will stay where i want it until it is time to epoxy the guide wraps and include the tip top too.

Bill.

Oh, BTW, if you do this the strips from the gun should be applied on a amooth shiny surface for easy removal.

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I use Rod Bond. Hot sticks can soften in a hot car or on a boat in hot weather.
Good Wraps Bob

Ash

I have used both tip top adhesive and regular hot glue gun adhesive both have worked. I have switched to 5 min epoxy because of the hot sun in car window issue. I have been real happy with that.

I always use the 5 minute epoxy. I never had one come loose using this. You can still remove the tip with heat. It takes a little more heat though. Regular epoxy you can not heat the tip and remove it.

I've been doing it like Bill for several years with no problem. I run long VERY thin beads out on a sheet of waxpaper. I keep a glass cigar tube full of the "strings" of glue. Haven't had any problem with them and find it convenient to just snip a piece off, drop it in the tip tube, hit with a lighter and put it on the rod

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

You guys who use rod bond or epoxy for the tip top - how do you get it off without damaging the blank if you have to replace the top?

I did not have great luck with the Flex Coat Tip Top adhesive. Like others mention above, I've had tips come lose because of the heat. I use 5 minute epoxy and to answer Ted's question, use a little heat when I need to remove the tip.

You won't get it off with Rod Bond very easily. I use 5 minute epoxy, and to remove them I use a little heat, then a direct pull. Not too much heat, and DO NOT attempt to twist off when breaking the bond. I have had the misfortune of breaking tips that were a bit sensitive to the heat.

Go to an archery supply store if you cannot find the amber ferrule cement in the rod supply store. higher melting point than the white stuff and it holds very well.