Why do the silver tips of the guide feet where I filed for easy ramp up show through the thread? Are my wraps not tight enough? Cheap thread (pacbay)? This is my first rod and this is discouraging. I can tell that there is no spaces between the thread, so it looks like my wrap is tight. It's that the thread over the silver part is lighter than the thread over the black part of the guide foot.... HELP!

Couple questions. Standard nylon or NCP Opaque thread? Black framed guides? With black frames and standard nylon you will see the guide foot and the silver spot on the end of the foot unless you paint it black again. With NCP or Opaque threads if the ramp you have prepared is real streep it is hard to not get the silver to show as the thread transitions from the ramp to the flat surface. I make the transition as smooth as possible by taking some more material off and make the angle more acute.

Simple solution on a black guide = Black Sharpie marker


Eric

I do NOT recommend Sharpie markers, they can run (read as ruin) onto the thread. I highly recommend Testor's Paint Markers ... much tougher and it doesn't run ... kind of like a Marine.

As you wrap over the guide foot, if the taper on your foot is not shallow enough, you'll need to pack each turn of the thread against the previous wrap.

Pacific Bay thread is fine, there isn't anything wrong with it. Good quality.

..............

Thanks guys. I'm not going to correct this rod as it's my first and I'm ok with it. Funny that I've been reading these boards and reading the tutorials and theres never mention of this problem. Guide prep is stressed but I've never heard or seen someone put the black back on the guide foot after filing. I'll be sure to pack my thread after each turn and color the foot next time. Thanks again and keep the suggestions coming....

Brad, I've never had the coloration from a sharpie bleed into the thread using epoxy finish, but I've had the thread ruined using testor's black paint while using permagloss to finish the threads. I don't know if a sharpie will bleed when using permagloss, or not. I have used the testor's paint pen with epoxy without problems. Just for your info.

If you used regular nylon thread and did not use CP first, the thread will become transparent and what is under it will show.

Bill - willierods.com

I will often use the Sharpie trick. I let it dry, then put a coat of 2 of Chromaseal over it. No problems so far with it bleeding!

Why aren't these guides made with a shollower foot? Seems it would make everything easier.

Boy--------Do I agree with John on this -----------Why cain't they just make them right to start with?

These guides were el cheapo as this is my first rod and I am just learning. The next time I will buy better quality guides. And, I also quesation why they can't come come from the factory already prepped. Also, do I understand it right that I must use color preserver on nylon thread? My therad just says "nylon". Nothing about NCP or CP.

If you want to preserve the color and not see what's underneath it you have to use color preserver on regular thread (unless it's black). Regular thread is transparent when you apply finish and some people, including myself, like the effect. I even like to see my guide foot underneath, sometimes. It all depends on what you want. By simply wetting a test wrap with water, you'll get a pretty fair idea of what the thread will do when you apply finish. If you use NCP thread, No Color Preserver is needed, but, NCP is a flatter color and doesn't have the "pop" that regular thread and color preserver produces.
BTW all,
There are guides out there that come already "prepped". But, don't buy into them for that reason alone. They're still too steep and you'll need to take em down some more.

If you want to maintain the spool color then you must use CP. A definite must when using the lighter colors like light Blue , Yellow, Pink etc , as they will go translucent.
NCP Nylon colors are not as brilliant as regular Nylon.

This Guide thing is really kinda stupid -IMO-------The whole thing is , like we would buy a reel and have to modify it to fit the seat? Or Whatever--------Explain to me ----someone in the know why this is? -----especially the fugi people or american tackle and the rest!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hil- Rods

Almost all the guides on the market today are listed as "pre-ground" - and they are but never quite enough especially if you are using size A or thinner diameter thread. The "why" for some guides is that they are ground and then a final coat of finish (plating or painting or PVD) is applied. It's the last or next to last step in the manufacturing process. Why they aren't ground down more prior to the application of the final finish likely has many answers - which probably come down to "time and money" - plus you have to remember that most of the non-custom builders are using size C and D on their rods which means that the threads will "climb" up a steeper guide foot.

If using magic markers - look to see if the word PERMANENT is on the tube. Apply, allow to dry and it should not run or bleed.

CP ALL threads when you absolutely don't want to see the feet through the thread. I even CP NCP thread - especially light yellow and white. Personally I like the look (and it cuts out a step in wrapping to completion.

For Bill Bradley - If you can see the tips of the guide feet then you likely need to taper the very end more - to a knife point for size A. Also as Tom said - too steep an angle on the guide foot. They need to be shallower the thinner the thread - tension is likely also at play (too much tension) as well as too steep an angle on the guide foot. You should (with effort) be able to adjust the guide 1mm or so side to side for final alignment. If the tension is too high the thread stretches too much (losing resiliency / elasticity). How much tension is a topic that comes up with some regularity and I don't think there's a finite answer - more like "over time you'll know"

I have and would do it again...modify a reel foot that is, provided nothing drastic and it doesn't affect the performance too much. As for the guides, well, like Ken said, time and money. Guide prep to the standards we acept are best (and use) takes time, and with the volume of guides produced, would take ages to prep. Every second they are still in the factory, costs money, and that is the cost of production.