I want to coat a wooden butt cap in epoxy to give it the appearance that it’s encased in plastic. I don’t have the equipment or facility to resin cast it, so I’m thinking of trying finishing epoxy using the drying motor. My question is, will the epoxy coat evenly along the surface as well as along the end of the cap, or will it sag on the end? I’m planning to test it using a wooden dowel, but I’m interested to hear if anyone has already tried this.

If you're able to affix it to your rotation device so that it's level, it will be fine. However, keep in mind that because epoxy is self leveling, any surfaces that aren't level will see epoxy on them that while level, isn't even across the un-level surface.

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Sorry Tom. I guess it’s been a long day. I’m having trouble understanding your message, or maybe I wasn’t clear in my own. Getting the piece level is no problem. Will the epoxy flow evenly, both horizontally (along the side), and vertically (along the bottom of the cap)?

I think, and I might be wrong, that Tom was saying if there are imperfections or dips as it were the epoxy will fill in the holes and you'll end up with a slightly uneven surface. Then again, I have been wrong before.

Gary
Guide finish epoxy is probably not the best choice for a wooden butt cap. To answer your question,, the finish will try to sag to the bottom of the cap no matter what..If you put the finish on while rotating the cap, and don't get too much on it, it won't sag. Guide finish will level itself as will any liquid.
Personally I would not use guide finish. I would use Tru-Oil gun stock finish by Birchwood Casey, sold in any good sporting goods store. Rub on 4 or 5 coats with your finger, letting each coat dry. If it's not slick enough, rub on some more coats. It will come out looking like it is encased in clear plastic. The Tru-Oil will penetrate onto the wood better than guide finish.

It will in really thin, thin , thin coats. A better way and longer more durable way would be to use Spar varnish, multiple coats again time consuming and the first time dropped on gravel or any other rough surface or treated with abuse, all your work will be for not.
If it is a show piece, then using thread epoxy will be just fine, I would wrap tape around the end of the butt cap so as to make a lip so you can put or pour thread finish on the end let cure about 12-24 hours remove the tape then put in your dryer apply finish to the side and you will have a nice even finish on the piece.
I have done a couple rods with thread finish all the way on the wood handles and it has come out very beautiful, but I can't sell them as users because people say their too pretty to fish with.

If you have any more questions or want any more tips on thread finish wood handles or would like pics email me.

PS a little trick I learned was to wash the wood with acetone 10-45 seconds before you put the thread finish on the first coat, it will make the first coat stick really well.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2008 12:45AM by Tim Hurst.

if your place is warm, permagloss will last a long time is hard and dries fast. You could put several coats on letting each set about an hour or so.

Perma Gloss

Right, on the veritcal surfaces, it will tend to run off, unless its being rotated which is what I was getting at. And then the speed of rotation for your particular epoxy will be critical.

You may wish to experiement with one before you attempt it on your final piece.

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Gary, I've done lots of my wood grips with caps like that. Stand your grip up straight before you start and tape around the edge and fill with epoxy to the depth you desire. Take the tape off when it is set up and wait overnight and trim any areas or sand. When you turn on the dryer on your final finish you can paint a light coat of epoxy over the sanded/trimmed areas and if it is light enough it will not run and will fill in any dull places that were sanded. As far as durability I've used Perma Gloss for the hardest finish. Scratches and sanded areas can also be covered with True oil over the epoxy.

Thank you all for the advice. I'm glad I found this group. A great bunch of helpful, friendly people.

Gary,

I would suggest using Diamondite for this. I just did a rounded inlay and it came out beautifully. Looks encased just as you are wanting. If its a flat surface on the end, I would follow Tim and Sam's procedure.

Bill in WV