I did a Tiger Wrap on a split grip handle. On the final step where you run two threads together and pull out the sacrifice thread is where my problem started. I used regular thread and applied a coat of color preserver. I noticed that air bubbles were trapped in the space left where the thread was pulled out. I thought that I had removed most of the air bubbles by brushing around the blank rather than across. But to my surprise when I epoxied the top layer you can see thousands of micro bubbles. They are not in the epoxy per se but deep down in the spaces left from the sacrifice thread. Next time I will use NCP thread. The effect is there and it looks good except for the bubbles that I can see with my magnifying visor.

I tend to think that your bubbles may have come from shaking the bottle of CP. If so, never shake it, just stir. Micro bubbles in CP generally come from shaking the bottle. Don't know if you did this, but if so, next time don't.

Never use a brush to "brush" CP or epoxy. Just load the brush, lower it to the wrap, and rotate the rod once or twice under the brush. That's all you need to do.

Not much you can do about the bubbles you have there now. You could possibly sand off the top layer (you should have a couple coats of epoxy inbetween the layers) and then start again at the second layer step.

.............

Im not sure at what step you are applying the cp.....I wrap the top threads, then coat with cp. Once the cp is almost dry I pull out the sacrificial thread. This way the remaining thread is stabilized more. Applying cp after the thread is pulled just seems like there is more chance of the remaining thread to be pushed around accidentally.

Not a bad point to make.

Keep in mind that in the article, the author stated that once the top layer was wrapped, you shouldn't remove the sacrificial thread until you've warmed the wrap with a hair dryer and then waited from "45 minutes to an hour." This allows the thread to slightly set in the underlying epoxy and stabilize itself so it's not easily moved when you remove the sacrificial spacing thread nor when you apply your CP and/or epoxy to the finished wrap.

Little things like this often make the difference between a nice success and somewhat less than that. Details count.

...........

Good points, Tom and Lou. First of all, I did shake the CP. Secondly, the thread was well anchored with heat from a heat gun. The idea of leaving the sacrifice thread on the wrap until the CP starts to dry is a good one. One of the authors does state that bubbles will be trapped in the vacant area left from pulling one thread and that heat will help dissipate the bubbles. I went back and reread the article to see what step I had missed. Live and learn. This being my first Tiger Wrap I was surprised at how well the effect came out in spite of the micro bubbles.

Sacrifice thread is what you pull under your wrap when your done ? Newbie!!

No, it's the spacing thread used on the holographic and Tiger type wraps.

............

Glad I caught this post. I have been using metallic threads on the top layer to avoid the use of CP, but want to try the tiger wrap with some of my regular thread, which will definitely require CP, time to get out the practice blank I guess.

Oh and thanks Tom , for the tidbit on not shaking the CP. I could of swore my bottle of CP said shake well before using, but I'll have to double check- I did notice the bubbles after shaking, but usually let them settle out before applying.

Assuming you have your rod chucked into a lathe of some sort, release or remove the belt from the headstock pulley so when you pull out the thread you are not pulling against any tension or resistance. Once I did that my spacing thread came off easily and without moving the thread that is being left behind. Try it, it might help.

It might say "shake well" but you don't want to do that. Trouble is, most of the folks who offer color preserver don't actually manufacture it. Somebody is making it, somebody else is bottling it and somebody else is making labels. Shaking causes bubbles which may or may not harm what you're doing. A gentle stir is always the better way to get everything in good suspension.

.................

Anybody else notice the same. I sure would like to hear Scott or Bills' thoughts on the matter.

I think that the use of metallic thread, the lighter colors, on the top of the Holo diminishes the underlying effect of the Holo. I have noticed that maximum HOLO effect is achieved with the same basic color in a Nylon top thread. I have an idea that the reflectiveness or what every you want to call it of the metallic thread on top tends to reflect light off the surface of the wrap instead of allowing deeper penetration and spreading of the light patterns that are reflected internally within the wrap. Some of the most vivid holos I have done are topped with black nylon thread. I think that the use of CP if used for color retention may also impede the ability of light to be bounced around inside the Holo.

What say you?

Gon Fishn

Bill,
I've noticed something different about tigers done with metallics vs nylon on top
but except for the nylon wraps having more depth I can't put my finger on what
I'm seeing. Your right on! There definately is a difference. Not a bad difference
depending on what your trying to acheive, just different.

Dan B.
I hope you were just trying some humor towards Ellis. However, I didn't see it
that way. At first read, it came off as insulting. At second read I'm still not sure.

Around here "Newby" is a good title anyway. Just about ALL of us are newbies
in one rodbuilding aspect or another. I don't think ANY one of us are masters
of all things involved.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2008 11:52PM by Raymond_Adams.

Bill, Yes I've noticed it, On the very first tigers I done with metallic's and It seems that the metallic causes more light , in which kinda makes a illusion of the wrap/or blank underneath dissappear or something, more so with more light. Still looks cool. Kenny

Another thing you can do is to skip the CP altogether. You still get the cool effect of the holo/tiger wrap, along with having the cool effect of translucent threads (which I really prefer over CP-ed threads). If you use no CP, you'll still get some bubbles where that sacrificial thread was, but they'll be of the variety that either raise to the surface and pop on their own, or the kind that you can pop by blowing on them with a coffee straw. (They might also pop with the use of some heat, but I don't flame my epoxy, so I'm not a good reference for that.)

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I pretty much use black metallic on the top thread on nearly every one of the Moire's that I do anymore.

Putter
Williston, ND

Bill Colby offered an alternative method if you read his article. This is the way he showed me and the way I learned to it - there is no sacrifical spacing thread. You just wrap against your thumbnail which creates perfect spacing between the single top thread from end to end. I actually got pretty good doing it this way.

After I read Scott's version, I did a few that way. I found it easier, but not as quick. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Try both and see which you prefer.

..............

The little tricks that were in the article about which post to place the spool on for the direction you are going and not to put both threads through the tensioning device may not have been noticed by all. If all these things are done as Scott said in later posts on .org you can step on the gas and do a wrap in a flash. Quick is really not a good description - four inches in about 10 seconds is all it takes when everyting is set up correctly.

Raymond,

I think that Dan was asking if the sacrifice thread is referring to the thread you use to pull through on tie offs. He is saying that he is a newbie and doesn't understand what we are talking about!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Your probably right Mike.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..